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G
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TOP RIGHT: COURTESY JUDY SCHAD; BOTTOM
: JOHNATHON KELSO
TH E
CH E E S E
MAKER
JUDY SCHAD
GREENVILLE, IN
Judy Schad has led the
farmstead-cheese revolu-
tion since the late 1970s,
starting with the milk from
her children’s 4-H show
goats. Rather than look to
France for inspiration, she
read Cheesemaking Made
Easy and forged friend-
ships with female crafts-
people. With her cheese
business, Capriole, Schad
proved a great marketer,
too, selling to Southern
chefs who want regional
cheeses (like her O’Banon,
a tart chèvre wrapped in
bourbon-soaked chestnut
leaves). Her Southern
Indiana location is often
called Kentuckiana.
THE INTERPRETER
EDDIE HERNANDEZ, ATLANTA, GA
His grandmother owned bars and restaurants, where he played as a child.
At age 17, Eddie Hernandez emigrated from his native Monterrey, Mexico,
to Texas, where he drummed in a cover band that played Spanish-
language versions of rock anthems. In Atlanta, Hernandez worked his
way into the kitchen. Together with his partner, Mike Klank, he built
Taqueria del Sol into a multicultural restaurant group that suits the city’s
modern needs. Serving refried black-eyed peas and turnip greens spiked
with chile de árbol, he has codified the 21st-century Southern kitchen.
Before she became a newspaperwoman, Jo Ellen O’Hara got a degree in home economics,
but writing was her love. After she earned a master’s in journalism, O’Hara won the job
as food editor of The Birmingham News in 1965. Her male editors, who predicted that
she would marry and leave her role, insisted she adopt the pseudonym “Sue Scattergood”
so the paper could easily replace her. She finally convinced them to let her write under
her own name after 15 years in the position. Forty-three years after she became the go-to
food expert, O’Hara retired from the paper in 2008, having documented the city’s rise
from being called “Bombingham” to becoming a citadel of American food culture.
THE REPORTER JO ELLEN O’HARA, BIRMINGHAM, AL
SOUTHERNLIVING.COM / JULY 20 19
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