There will be a coupling device that comes with the adaptor
to connect the motor shaft with the shaft of the transmission.
There is a contact on the adaptor that runs from the motor
controller. This is started with the ignition switch when you
start your electric car.
Somewhere along this circuit you will want a manual
disconnect so that when you are working on your car, you
won’t get zapped. Anyone who has installed an alternator or
starter and got a shock knows what I mean. It also acts as an
emergency switch to shut off power to the car.
There is another safety feature that is installed too, and it is
called an inertia switch, it activates and disconnects the
batteries in case of an accident. It isn’t absolutely necessary
but it doesn’t cost much either.
We installed a shunt on the (-) negative battery lead to allow
us to measure power output and the charging process.
You might want to install some instrumentation too; a meter
that measures amps, volts and total battery charge is a good
idea.
You can use just a simple ammeter and voltmeter if you
want.
There also needs to be a simple auxiliary 12 volt charging
system to maintain your ordinary vehicle battery and your on
board electrical systems. A simple DC converter will take the
high voltage of your large DC motor and break it down to 12
volts, or you can mount an alternator on the motor assembly.