You don’t really have to have a 12 volt battery at all if you
don’t want. It is an auxiliary system and can be run directly
from the DC converter if you get one that is large enough.
The alternator setup is what we like and a simple adaptor
unit can be purchased that will run your system at about 13.5
volts, which is lots for lighting etc.
All circuits should have fuses installed in line in case of short
circuit. You want to blow a fuse, not your batteries or engine.
Most smart electric car conversions have fuses installed in
both the positive and negative feeds. They are inexpensive
insurance, but carry extras with you. One blown fuse could
have you sitting at the side of the road, as we found out.
How does the throttle work, you are probably wondering? A
variable resistor, called a throttle box is mounted near your
throttle control (gas pedal linkage) and your foot controls the
motor just like a gas car. It is connected to the throttle cable.
Acceleration is very smooth and fast unlike your old gas
engine.
You will need about 35 feet of battery cable. Use large cable
such as 2.o welding cable or bigger. It is flexible and large to
carry a lot of current.
The batteries connect to each other in series, which is to say
(-) to (+) and (+) to (-). Remember the fuse in the contacts
and it routes through the manual disconnect for easy
maintenance. Color code your wire, red is positive and black
is negative.