Car Buying Tips Guide 1

mechanic you already have history with, I’d go with one of the largeinspection-only firms, such as AIM Mobile Inspections, who inspect cars for (^)
lenders and manufacturers when leases come due. I use them on a regularbasis, and have found them to be top notch. Inspections are all these
outfits do; they don’t have a hidden agenda to create more billable work forthemselves.
Since they work nationwide, they can open up the number of cars you canlook at, too. They also will tell you about any obvious paintwork or accident (^)
damage, and can even run analysis on the vehicle’s oil and transmissionfluids, which can tell you even more. It’s amazing how many times they turn (^)
up undisclosed damage on a car—and I don’t buy it. Which makes their feethe best money I ever spend.
This inspection should be a final step, and the seller has a right to make thedeal contingent upon a clean bill of health from your inspector. Note that
you still have room for negotiation if the report turns up anything. And theseinspections make it easier to negotiate without the seller taking things in an
emotional or unprofessional way.
EQUIPMENT
Most everything sold today has essentials such as air conditioning andeven power windows and locks, meaning that optional equipment becomes (^)
much more of a subjective area. While the Blue Books may say navigationis worth $1,000 as an option, you may not really care about it. Of course,
such equipment could mean you’ll get more for the car whenObviously, more equipment is better—especially things like power seats, you sell it. (^)
that can’t be added later. By and large, though, this is the area where youshould trust your own judgment. You’ll know if you’ve just got to have those (^)
heated seats (which, like many things, can be added after you get the car).