National Geographic - UK (2019-07)

(Antfer) #1

For weeks, the embankment shielding East


Dhangmari, in the Khulna district of southwest-


ern Bangladesh, had been threatening to sink


into the Pasur River. First, a ferocious storm had


ripped into the outer layer of concrete. Then,


at the end of 2017, the river had begun eating


into the porous earthen wall itself. Locals rushed


in sandbags, but that bought only a few days’


respite. When the river finally surged into the


cemetery across from Haldar’s garden, disin-


terring skeletons and contaminating the village’s


drinking pools, it filled her one-room hut waist-


deep in muddy brown water.


“There was nothing else I could do to pro-


tect my house,” she said. “We were powerless,


like children.”


Haldar, a meticulously dressed widow


of about 50, had at least had some inkling


of what was to come. She’d watched as the


nearby Sundarbans, a vast mangrove forest


that flanks the village, had retreated, its trees


looking increasingly weedy. She’d noted how


the water appeared to draw strength from the


forest’s weakness. The only surprise, Haldar


insisted, is that the village’s earthworks held


out for so long. “The trees defended us, but we


treated them very badly,” she said. “So now we


are all suffering the consequences.”


It was when the


body of a long-dead


friend surfaced near


her front door that


Bulu Haldar knew


her house was as


good as gone.


138 NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC

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