ST201906

(Nora) #1

PICK OF THE BUNCH


There are more than a thousand different grape varieties currently


being grown commercially to make wine. Here’s just a handful to get
the conversation f lowing...


Pinot noir
Notorious for itsc
nature – it demands
precisely the rightco
before it will flourish–
nevertheless remainson
most importantredgrap
world becauseit canmake
exceptional wine.Relatively
delicate, with gentletannins
characteristic redberryand
cherry flavours,it is usedto
make the greatredsof
Burgundy, and isoneof the
three principal grapes (along with
chardonnay and pinot meunier) used for
Champagne. Best suited to cooler climates,
pinot noir is also the most widely planted
grape in English vineyards – used for
many years to make sparkling whites, it is
central to the exciting new genre of English
red wine too.

Grenache
Also called garnacha, this is an old, widely
planted red variety that looks set for a rosy
future too, because it enjoys a warmer
climate. The vines flourish in dry, sun-baked
regions and can remain productive for a
century or more. The grape’s relatively high
sugars (and therefore alcohol), and its fruits-
of-the-forest character contribute a rich,
multi-layered fruitiness to wines, sometimes
hinting at strawberry jam, but it can reveal
notes of spice and liquorice too. Grenache is
used in everything from the delicate, barely
pink rosés of Provence, to the magnificent
reds of Chateauneuf du Pape, and is widely
employed in wines from Spain, Italy,
California and Australia, too.

Riesling
This white grape, most often associated with
Germany but grown internationally, is a real
wine buff’s favourite. It is rarely blended but
usually used alone to make wines that are
crisp and fresh, but with aromatic complexity
and touch of lushness that make them
delicious drunk alone but also great with
food. Riesling may be bone-dry or quite
sweet and anything in between. Examples

thatarea little off-dry are particularly
recommended with spiced dishes
suchas Thai curries. As it agesin
thebottle, riesling is known for
developing a characteristic
trol-like aroma.

iolo
taly’s great regional grapes,
gives us barolo and
barbaresco:big, structured red wines with
famoustannic ‘grip’ in the mouth. Nebbiolo
winesarealso intense, floral and fragrant,
witha delicate, red-gold hue. This is anoth
fussy fruit, that demands much skill fromt
winemaker, and provides a great example
how grape variety and terroir come toget
to makesomethingunique.Nebbiolo
(namedafterthenebbia,or fog,of itshilly
homeland)i
grown outsi
very differen
of northern
and cheese,
and gnocch
truffles,mea
stews,
hazelnuts.

CabernetFranc
This is a fascinatingred grape. Open a bottle
of 100% cabernetfranc wine, swirl, sniff and
taste and you should be able to detect a
definite mineral note most often described as
being like pencil shavings! There’s also
pepper, red fruit and herbs in there. This
grape’s unique nuanced character is often
employed in a blend with other grapes,
notably in Bordeaux wines. But on its own
it’s quite a talking point: certainly the very
thing if you are a bit weary of big, powerful,
Ribena-esque reds. Sip it alone to get to
know it, then pair it up with tomato-based
dishes or try with cheese.

Tempranillo
Quintessentially Spanish, tempranillo
forms the rugged backbone of delicious,
food-friendly red Rioja wines. It’s known
for its muscular tannins, notes of leather
and tobacco and a quality often

y y A good
betforbarbecues,andfull-flavoured,
Mediterranean-influencedfood,
tempranillo wines like Rioja are often
aged in oak, which enhances their body.
Plain ‘Rioja’ is the youngest, fruitiest wine,
followed by Rioja crianza, reserva, and
finally gran reserva (aged at least two
years in oak, and more in the bottle).
Tempranillo goes by many other names,
including tinto fino, tinto del pais, tinta de
toro,cencibel and ull de llebre.

cchus
edafter the Greek god of wine, this
apeyou’ll see on the label of many
rd-winning English white wines.
metimes described as a British rival
sauvignon blanc, it’s currently being
diedto see just what it’s capable of
heEnglish climate. At its best, it is
omatic, apple-y and floral, crisp and
an.Drink English bacchus as an
eritifor pair it up with nibbles,
paragus, goat’s cheese or fish.

ognier
piteits exquisite floral character –
shoulddefinitely get a whiff of
honeysucklefrom it – this hard-to-grow white
varietywas all but extinct by the 1960s.
Luckily, it has been revived to make luscious,
sultry, scented wines the world over. Try it as
a change from chardonnay. Tasting quite ‘big’
and alcoholic for a white wine, it can go down
a treat with savoury dishesthat include fruit.

Gewürztraminer
One sexy grape, ‘gewürz’
distinctive, lychee-perfum
character. It is one ofthee
white wine grapes toreco
the glass. One description
‘smelling like a tart’s boud
but others love its forwar
charms. Many gewürzwin
are slightly sweet butlike
riesling, off-dry examples
can be very good withsp
food. Sweet gewürzpairs
well with puds.

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