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An
O
cean water moves as waves, tides, and currents. There are
two types of currents: surface and deep. The surface
currents, caused by the wind, are great rivers in the ocean.
They can be some 50 miles (80 km) wide. They have a profound
effect on the world climate because the water warms up near
the Equator, and currents transfer this heat to higher latitudes.
Deep currents are caused by differences in water density.
Ocean Currents
TIDES AND THE CORIOLIS EFFECT
The Coriolis effect, which influences
the direction of the winds, drives the
displacement of marine currents.
SUBPOLAR ARCTIC
CIRCULATING SYSTEM
For the last five decades,
these currents have been
shown to be undergoing
dramatic changes.
EKMAN SPIRAL
explains why the
surface currents and
deep currents are
opposite in direction.
DEEP CURRENTS
have a vital function of carrying
oxygen to deep water. This permits
life to exist in deep water.
THE FOUR SEASONS
OF A LAKE
Because of the physical
properties of water, lakes
and lagoons have a special
seasonal circulation that
ensures the survival of living
creatures.
GEOSTROPHIC BALANCE
The deflection caused by the Coriolis effect on
the currents is compensated for by pressure
gradients between cyclonic and anticyclonic
systems. This effect is called geostrophic balance.
Coriolis
force
Low pressure
Subpolar low pressure
Currents in the
Northern
Hemisphere travel
in a clockwise
direction.
In the Southern
Hemisphere, the
currents travel in a
counterclockwise
direction.
High pressure
Subtropical high-
pressure center
Pressure
gradient
Winds
22 SURFACE FACTORS WEATHER AND CLIMATE 23
THE INFLUENCE OF THE WINDS
HOW CURRENTS ARE FORMED
Wind and solar
energy produce
surface currents
in the water.
In the Southern
Hemisphere, coastal winds
push away the surface
water so that cold water
can ascend.
Warm surface
waters
Deep cold
water
Deep
layers
COAST
Subsurface
waters
occupy the space
left by the
motion of the
surface waters.
This slow ascent of deep
water is called a surge. This
motion is modified by the
Ekman spiral effect.
Wind energy is
transferred to the water
in friction layers. Thus,
the velocity of the
surface water increases
more than that of the
deep water.
The Coriolis effect
causes the direction of
the currentsto deviate.
The surface currents
travel in the opposite
direction of the deep
currents.
64° F (18 °C)
61° F (16 °C)
57° F (14 °C)
54° F (12 °C)
Near Greenland,
the North Atlantic
water sinks, and
the colder and
more salinewater
is pushed
southward.
Gulf
Stream
Summer
stratification
77 °
75 °
64 °
55 °
46 °
43 °
41 °
41 °
46 °
46 °
41 °
32 °
35 °
37 °
39 °
37 °
39 °
Epilimnion
Thermocline
Hypolimnion
Fahrenheit
Ocean conveyor belt
Warm Cold
Winter mixture
Spring mix
Autumn mixture
1
Warm surface water
from the Gulf Stream
replaces the cold water
that is sinking.
2
SUMMER
Stable summer temperatures
prevent vertical circulation in the
body of water of the lagoon.
AUTUMN
Temperature decrease and
temperature variations generate
a mixing of the surface and deep
waters.
WINTER
When the water reaches 39° F
(4° C), its density increases. That
is how strata of solid water on
the surface and liquid water
underneath are created.
SPRING
The characteristics of water once
again initiate vertical circulation in
the lake. Spring temperatures lead
to this circulation.
Warm current
Cold current