Morocco Travel Guide

B3

B3

B3

C3

A6

A6

C2

(see    6)

(see    7)

Fez

    Sights

1    Dar    el-Makhzen

2    Ibn    Danan   Synagogue

3    Jewish Cemetery    &   Habarim Synagogue

4    Mellah

    Eating

5    Kaï    Taï

6    Maison Blanche

7    Mezzanine

    Drinking

Maison  Blanche

Mezzanine

History

In AD 789, Idriss I – who founded Morocco’s first imperial dynasty – decided that Oualili
(Volubilis) was too small and drew up plans for a grand new capital. He died before the plans
were implemented, however, so credit for the founding of Fez is often awarded to his son,
Idriss II, who carried out the will of his father. The memory of Idriss II is perpetuated in his
zawiya (religious fraternity based around a shrine) in the heart of Fez el-Bali.

The city started as a modest Berber town, but then 8000 families fleeing Al-Andalus settled
the east bank of the Oued Fez. They were later joined by Arab families from Kairouan
(Qayrawan) in modern-day Tunisia, who took over the west bank, creating the Kairaouine
quarter. The heritages of these two peoples formed a solid foundation for future religious,
cultural and architectural richness. Idriss II’s heirs split the kingdom, but Fez continued to enjoy
peace and prosperity until the 10th century.

Over the next centuries, the fortunes of Fez rose and fell with the dynasties. Civil war and
famine – incited by Berber invasions – were relieved only by the rise of the Almoravids. When
that dynasty fell from power around 1154, they fled Fez and destroyed the city walls as they
went. Only when the succeeding Almohad dynasty was assured of the Fassis’ loyalty were the
walls replaced – large sections still date from this period.

Fez continued to be a crucial crossroads, wielding intellectual rather than political influence.
With the Kairaouine Mosque and University already well established, it was the centre of
learning and culture in an empire stretching from Spain to Senegal. It recovered its political
status only much later, with the arrival of the Merenid dynasty around 1250.

During the 19th century, as central power crumbled and European interference increased, the
distinction between Marrakesh and Fez diminished, with both effectively serving as capitals of a
fragmented country. Fez retained its status as the ‘moral’ capital. It was here, on 30 March
1912, that the treaty introducing the French and Spanish protectorates over Morocco was
signed. Less than three weeks later, rioting and virtual revolt against the new masters served
as a reminder of the city’s volatility.