walk on your own in the medina late at night, especially for women. Knife-point robberies are
not unknown. Hotels and many restaurants are usually happy to provide an escort on request if
you’re out late.
Fez has long been notorious for its faux guides (unofficial guides) and carpet-shop hustlers,
all after their slice of the tourist dirham. Faux guides tend to congregate around Bab Bou
Jeloud, the main western entrance to the medina, although crackdowns by the authorities have
greatly reduced their numbers and hassle.
Even many official guides will suggest visitors turn their tour into a shopping trip, and the
pressure to buy can be immense. Fez’ carpet sellers are masters of their game. If you really
don’t want to buy, it might be best not to enter the shop at all: once the parade of beautiful rugs
begins, even the hardest-minded of tourists can be convinced to buy something they didn’t
really want (honeyed words suggesting that you could always sell the carpet later on eBay at
vast profit should be treated with extreme scepticism). It’s also worth remembering that any
time you enter a shop with a guide, the price of the goods immediately goes up to cover their
commission. Shopping in Fez needn’t be a battle – indeed it’s best treated as a game – but it’s
worth being prepared.
The touts who used to hang about Fez train station to pick up custom have now taken to
boarding trains to Fez, often at Sidi Kacem junction. Be particularly aware of overly friendly
young men approaching you claiming to be students or teachers returning to Fez – they’ll often
have ‘brothers’ who have hotels, carpet shops or similar.
Internet Access
Wi-fi is common across most midrange accommodation and above.
Cyber Batha Offline map ( Derb Douh; per hr Dh10; 9am-10pm) Has English as well as
French keyboards.
Cyber Club Offline map ( Blvd Mohammed V; per hr Dh6; 9am-10pm)
Teleboutique Cyber Club Offline map ( Blvd Mohammed V; per hr Dh7; 9am-11pm) Above
téléboutique on corner.
Media
L’Agenda Free bimonthly listings magazine (in French) produced by the regional tourism board.
Available at the tourist office and some riads and restaurants.
Medical Services
Hôpital Ghassani Offline map ( 0535 62 27 77) One of the city’s biggest hospitals; located
east of the ville nouvelle in the Dhar Mehraz district.
Night Pharmacy Offline map ( 0535 62 34 93; Ave Moulay Youssef; 9pm-6am) Located in
the north of the ville nouvelle; staffed by a doctor and a pharmacist.
Money
There are plenty of banks (with ATMs) in the ville nouvelle along Blvd Mohammed V, virtually all
offering foreign exchange. There’s not much happening in the medina, with these useful
exceptions:
Banque Populaire Offline map ( Bab Bou Jeloud; 8.45am-noon & 2.45-6pm Mon-Thu,