BANGKOK
BANGKOKSIGHTSBANGKOKSIGHTSWhile much of the market centres on cook-
ing ingredients, the section north of Th Cha-
roen Krung (equivalent to Soi 21, Th Charoen
Krung) is known for selling incense, paper
effi gies and ceremonial sweets – the essential
elements of a traditional Chinese funeral.
FWat Mangkon
Kamalawat CHINESE TEMPLE
(วัดมังกรกมลาวาส; Neng Noi Yee; Map p 76 ; Th Cha-
roen Krung; h9am-6pm; bus 73, 159, 507, MRT Hua
Lamphong, river ferry Tha Ratchawong) Clouds of
incense and the sounds of chanting form the
backdrop at this Chinese-style Mahayana
Buddhist temple. Dating back to 1871, it’s
the largest and most important religious
structure in the area, and during the an-
nual Vegetarian Festival (see the boxed text,
p 122 ), religious and culinary activities are
particularly active here.
Phahurat Market MARKET
(ตลาดพาหุรัด; Map p 76 ; Th Phahurat & Th Chakra-
phet; bus 82, 169, 507, river ferry Tha Saphan Phut)
Hidden behind the new and astonishingly
out of place India Emporium mall is Pha-
hurat Market, an endless bazaar uniting
fl amboyant Bollywood fabric, photogenic
vendors selling paan (betel nut for chewing)
and several shops stocked with delicious
northern Indian-style sweets.
Gurdwara Siri Guru Singh
Sabha SIKH TEMPLE
(Map p 76 ; Th Phahurat; h9am-5pm) In an alley
off Th Chakraphet is this large Sikh temple
that’s reminiscent of a mosque interior, de-
voted to the worship of the Guru Granth Sa-
hib, the 16th-century Sikh holy book, which
is itself considered to be a ‘living’ guru and
the last of the religion’s 10 great teachers.
Reportedly, the temple is the second-largest
Sikh temple outside India. Visitors are wel-
come, but they must remove their shoes.
RIVERSIDE ขางแมนํ้า
Talat Noi NEIGHBOURHOOD
(ตลาดน้อย; Map p 80 ; Soi Phanurangsi; h9am-6pm;
river ferry Tha Si Phraya) Bordered by the river,
Th Songwat, Th Charoen Krung and Th Yo-
tha, this ancient neighbourhood is a fasci-
nating jumble of tiny alleys, greasy machine
shops and traditional architecture. Located
opposite the River View Guest House, San
Jao Sien Khong (Map p 80 ; admission free;
h6am-6pm) is one of the city’s oldest Chinese
shrines and also one of the best areas to be
during the annual Vegetarian Festival (see
the boxed text, p 122 ).SILOM & SATHON สิลม/สาธร
The business district of Th Silom has only
a handful of tourist attractions scattered
among the corporate hotels, offi ce towers
and wining-and-dining restaurants. As you
get closer to the river, the area becomes
spiced with the sights and smells of its In-
dian and Muslim residents. Moving north
along Th Charoen Krung, the area adjacent
to the river was the international mercantile
district during Bangkok’s shipping heyday.
Traffi c is notorious in this part of town,
but the BTS, MRT and Chao Phraya Express
provide some transport relief.MR Kukrit Pramoj House MUSEUM
(บ้านหม่อมราชวงศ์คึกฤทธิ์ปราโมช; Map p 82 ; Soi 7/
Phra Phinij, Th Narathiwat Rachananakharin; adult/
child 50/ 20B; h10am-4pm; BTS Chong Nonsi) Au-
thor and statesman Mom Ratchawong (MR,
an honorary royal title) Kukrit Pramoj once
resided in this charming Thai house, now
open to the public as a museum. Europe-
an-educated but devoutly Thai, MR Kukrit
surrounded himself with the best of both
worlds: fi ve traditional teak buildings, Thai
art, Western books and lots of heady conver-
sations. A guided tour is recommended for
a more intimate introduction to the former
resident, who authored more than 150 books
and served as prime minister of Thailand.Queen Saovabha Memorial
Institute (Snake Farm) SNAKE FARM
(สถานเสาวภา (สวนงู); Map p 82 ; http://www.saovabha.com;
cnr Th Phra Ram IV & Th Henri Dunant; adult/child
200/50B; h9.30am-3.30pm Mon-Fri, to 1pm Sat &
Sun; BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Si Lom) Snake farms
tend to gravitate towards carnivalesque rath-
er than humanitarian, except at the Queen
Saovabha Memorial Institute. Founded in
1923, the snake farm prepares antivenin from
venomous snakes. This is done by milking
the snakes’ venom, injecting it into horses,
and harvesting and purifying the antivenom
that they produce. The antivenoms are then
used to treat human victims of snake bites.
The leafy grounds are home to a few caged
snakes (and a constant soundtrack of Western
rock music), but the bulk of the attractions are
found in the Simaseng Building, at the rear of
the compound. The ground fl oor houses sev-
eral varieties of snakes in glass cages. Regular
milkings (h11am Mon-Fri) and snake-han-
dling performances (h2.30pm Mon-Fri & 11am
Sat & Sun) are held at the outdoor ampitheatre.