BANGKOK
BANGKOKSIGHTSBANGKOKSIGHTSSri Mahariamman Temple HINDU TEMPLE
(วัดศรีมหาอุมาเทว (ีวดแขกสั ลมี ); Wat Phra Si Maha
Umathewi; Map p 82 ; cnr Th Silom & Th Pan; admis-
sion free; h6am-8pm; bus 15, 504, BTS Surasak)
Standing out, even among Bangkok’s golden
wát, this Hindu temple virtually leaps off
the block. Built in the 1860s by Tamil immi-
grants in the centre of a still thriving ethnic
enclave, the structure is a stacked facade of
intertwined, full-colour Hindu deities. In the
centre of the main shrine is Jao Mae Maha
Umathewi (Uma Devi, also known as Shakti,
Shiva’s consort), and along the left interior
wall sit rows of Shiva, Vishnu and other Hin-
du deities, as well as a few Buddhas, so that
just about any non-Muslim, non-Judaeo-
Christian Asian can worship here.
Thais call this temple Wat Khaek – kàak
is a colloquial expression for people of Indi-
an descent. The literal translation is ‘guest’,
an obvious euphemism for a group of peo-
ple that locals don’t particularly want as
permanent residents; hence most Indians
living permanently in Thailand don’t appre-
ciate the term.
SIAM SQUARE & PRATUNAM
สยามสแควร/ประตนูํ้า
Commerce, mainly in the form of multisto-
rey mega-malls, forms the main attraction
in this part of town, but there are a couple
of sights that don’t involve credit cards. The
BTS and klorng taxis provide easy access to
most attractions here.
Erawan Shrine BRAHMIN SHRINE
(ศาลพระพรหม; San Phra Phrom; Map p 86 ; cnr
Th Ratchadamri & Th Ploenchit; admission free;
h6am-11pm; BTS Chit Lom) The Erawan Shrine
was originally built in 1956 as something of
a last-ditch eff ort to end a string of misfor-
tunes that occurred during the construction
of the hotel, at that time known as the Er-
awan Hotel. After several incidents rang-
ing from injured construction workers to
the sinking of a ship carrying marble for
the hotel, a Brahmin priest was consulted.
Since the hotel was to be named after the el-
ephant escort of Indra in Hindu mythology,
the priest determined that Erawan required
a passenger, and suggested it be that of Lord
Brahma. A statue was built, and lo and be-
hold, the misfortunes miraculously ended.
Although the original Erawan Hotel was
demolished in 1987, the shrine still exists,
and today remains an important place of
pilgrimage for Thais, particularly those in
need of some material assistance. Those
making a wish from the statue should ideal-
ly come between 7am and 8am, or 7pm and
8pm, and should off er a specifi c list of items
that includes candles, incense, sugar cane or
bananas, all of which are almost exclusively
given in multiples of seven. Particularly pop-
ular are teak elephants, the money gained
through the purchase of which is donated to
a charity run by the current hotel, the Grand
Hyatt Erawan. And as the tourist brochures
depict, it is also possible for you to charter aRiverside
æSights 14 Shangri-La Hotel .....................................B6
1 Bangkok Folk Museum........................... D3 15 Swan Hotel ...............................................C5
2 San Jao Sien Khong................................. B1
3 Talat Noi .................................................... A1 úEating
Le Normandie ................................ (see 10)
ØActivities, Courses & Tours Lord Jims ........................................ (see 10)
4 Loy Nava .................................................. B3
5 Oriental Spa............................................. B5 ûDrinking
6 Wan Fah Cruises ..................................... B2 16 Sirocco Sky Bar .......................................D6
7 Yok Yor Restaurant ................................. A1
ýEntertainment
ÿSleeping Bamboo Bar ................................... (see 10)
8 Millennium Hilton.................................... A3
9 New Road Guesthouse........................... C4 þShopping
10 Oriental Hotel .......................................... B5 River City Complex.......................... (see 6)
11 P&R Residence........................................ C3 17 Thai Home Industries .............................C5
12 Peninsula Hotel ....................................... A6
13 River View Guest House.......................... B1