BANGKOK
and despite recent bouts of political unrest,
the general atmosphere is hectic but stable.
It seems like only a matter of time before
Bangkok's modernisation reaches the lever
of other leading Asian capitals.KO R ATA NAKOSIN, BA NGL A MPHU &
THONBURI เกาะรตนโกสั ินทร/บางลําพู/ธนบุรี
Welcome to Bangkok’s birthplace. The vast
city we know today emerged from Ko Ra-
tanakosin, a tiny virtual island (‘Ko’) made
by dredging a canal around Mae Nam Chao
Phraya during the late 18th century. Within
this area you’ll fi nd the glittering temples
and palaces that most visitors associate with
the city. Ko Ratanakosin’s riverfront setting
is also home to several museums, markets
and universities. All these sights are within
walking distance of each other and are best
visited early in the morning before the day
comes to a boil.
Adjacent Banglamphu suff ers from an
extreme case of bipolar disorder, encom-
passing both the most characteristically
old-school-Bangkok part of town as well
as Th Khao San, a brash, neon-lit decom-
pression zone for international backpack-
ers. Depending on which one you fancy, it’s
not diffi cult to escape the other – another
of Banglamphu’s charms. The bulk of Bang-
kok’s classic buildings are found in this
area, as well as lots of authentic Bangkok
cuisine and culture.
Directly across the river is Thonburi,
which served a brief tenure as the Thai
capital after the fall of Ayuthaya. Today the
area along both sides of the river is easily
accessed from Bangkok’s cross-river ferries,
and there are museums and temples in
Thonburi that are historical complements to
those in Ko Ratanakosin.Despite the abundance of attractions, Ko
Ratanakosin and Banglamphu are still iso-
lated from the more modern forms of public
transport. The Chao Phraya River Express is
probably the most effi cient way of reaching
the area, and the klorng (canal; also spelt
khlong) taxi along Khlong Saen Saeb to east-
ern Banglamphu is another convenient op-
tion if you’re coming from the Siam Square
or Sukhumvit areas. The closest BTS station
is Ratchathewi (Map p 86 ).
If you’re planning on doing some exten-
sive exploring in the area, consider borrow-
ing one of the free Green Bangkok Bikes (see
the boxed text, p 151 ) available at fi ve bike
stations within the district. Ko Ratanakosin
Bangkok’s biggest and gaudiest tourist sites
fl oat regally on this artifi cial island. The
river ferry pier at Tha Chang is the most
convenient access point.Wat Phra Kaew & Grand
Palace BUDDHIST TEMPLE, PALACE COMPOUND
(วัดพระแก้ว/พระบรมมหาราชวงั; Map p 60 ; admis-
sion 350B; h8.30am-3.30pm; bus 503, 508, river
ferry Tha Chang) Also known as the Temple
of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew
is the colloquial name of the vast, fairy-tale
compound that also includes the former
residence of the Thai monarch, the Grand
Palace.
This ground was consecrated in 1782,
the fi rst year of Bangkok rule, and is today
Bangkok’s biggest tourist attraction and a
pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists
and nationalists. The 94.5-hectare grounds
encompass more than 100 buildings that
represent 200 years of royal history and ar-
chitectural experimentation. Most of the ar-TRAVELS OF THE EMERALD BUDDHAThe Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaew Morakot) holds a prominent position in Thai Buddhism
in spite of its size (a mere 66cm) and original material (probably jasper quartz or ne-
phrite jade rather than emerald). In fact, the Emerald Buddha was just another ordinary
image, with no illustrious pedigree, until its monumental ‘coming out’ in 15th-century
Chiang Rai. During a fall, the image revealed its luminescent interior, which had been cov-
ered with plaster (a common practice to safeguard valuable Buddhas from being stolen).
After a few successful stints in various temples throughout northern Thailand, the image
was stolen by Lao invaders in the mid-16th century and remained in that country for 200
years.
In 1778 Thailand’s King Taksin waged war against Laos, retrieving the image and
mounting it in Thonburi. Later, when the capital moved to Bangkok and General Chakri
took the crown, the Emerald Buddha was honoured with one of the country’s most mag-
nifi cent monuments, Wat Phra Kaew.