Thailand - Planning (Chapter)

BANGKOK

Luckily, less than a fi ve-minute túk-túk ride

away lies Thip Samai, also known by locals

as pàt tai Ъràđoo pĕe, and home to the most

legendary pàt tai in town. For something a

bit diff erent, try the delicate egg-wrapped

version, or the pàt tai fried with man gûng

(decadent shrimp fat).

Khunkung THAI $$

(Khun Kung Kitchen; Map p 60 ; 77 Th Maha Rat;

mains 75-280B; hlunch & dinner; a; bus 25, 32,

503, 508, river ferry Tha Chang) The restaurant

of the Royal Navy Association has one of

the few coveted riverfront locations along

this stretch of the Chao Phraya. Locals come

for the combination of riverfront views and

cheap and tasty seafood-based eats. The

entrance to the restaurant is near the ATM

machines at Tha Chang.

Hemlock THAI $$

(Map p 60 ; 56 Th Phra Athit; mains 60-220B; h4pm-

midnight; a; bus 32, 33, 64, 82, river ferry Tha Phra

Athit) Taking full advantage of its cosy sho-

phouse setting, this white-tablecloth local

is an excellent intro to Thai food. The vast

menu has the usual suspects, but also in-

cludes some dishes you’d be hard pressed

to fi nd elsewhere, as well as a strong vegie

section.

Ann’s Sweet PASTRIES $

(Map p 60 ; 138 Th Phra Athit; mains 75-150B; hlunch

& dinner; a; bus 32, 33, 64, 82, river ferry Tha Phra

Athit) Ann, a native of Bangkok and a gradu-

DAVID THOMPSON: CHEF & AUTHOR

David Thompson is the Head Chef of both the London and Bangkok branches of the

famed nahm restaurant. He is also the bestselling author of Thai Food and Thai Street

Food.

HOW DO YOU DESCRIBE THE FOOD IN BANGKOK?

The food of Bangkok is more urbane, with the rough and rambunctious tastes of the wild

and remote regions polished off. There’s a huge Chinese infl uence here because Bangkok

was a Chinese city. The central-plains food, which Bangkok is the epitome of, is refi ned

and has the classic four fl avours [sweet, sour, salty and spicy].

WHAT ARE SOME CLASSIC BANGKOK-STYLE DISHES?

I like some of the dishes in Chinatown, whether it be the oyster place I adore (Nay Mong;

p 123 ), or whether it be noodles with fi sh dumplings or with roast duck. Also Ъoo pàt

pŏng gàrèe [crab fried with curry powder], when done well, is easy, but is bloody deli-

cious and accessible. And pàt tai – well, you can’t really escape from the cliché, however

delicious it might be.

THE BEST FOOD ’HOOD?

It depends on what I’m looking for. Chinatown, for smoked duck or noodles. But if you

want to eat Thai food, you need to go to the markets. Bangkok still has some remnants of

the city or villages that it was. For Muslim food you can go down to the area near Haroon

Mosque, near the Oriental Hotel (p 109 ), or for Portuguese cakes, you can go to Santa

Cruz (p 75 ). There’s still those types of areas.

YOUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANT

It changes all the time. I like Krua Apsorn (p 119 ). It’s local. It’s good. It’s unreformed. It’s

not too precious. They cook for Thais, they feed Thais and it is Thai.

THE BEST MARKET

Of course, Or Tor Kor (p 140 ). Even though it’s sanitised, its soul has not been expunged

from it as it’s modernised. There’s some great stuff there.

BEST EATING ADVICE FOR A FIRST-TIME VISITOR

Just bloody well eat it – don’t think about it – just eat it. It’s so unlikely you’ll get sick,

but you will kick yourself for not actually just diving in. Go to places that look busiest,

because they’re busy for a reason. And a bit of food poisoning, well that adds local colour,

doesn’t it?

As told to Austin Bush