BANGKOK
Central Chit Lom DEPARTMENT STORE
(Map p 86 ; http://www.central.co.th; 1027 Th Ploenchit; BTS
Chit Lom) Generally regarded as the all-round
best for quality and selection, Central has 13
branches in Bangkok in addition to this chi-
chi fl agship. Fashion & Textiles
In recent years Bangkok has become some-
thing of a fashion-conscious and, increas-
ingly, fashion-generating city. Local design-
ers such as senada*, Flynow and Tango have
shown that the city harbours a style scene
that can compete on the international cat-
walk. More aff ordable looks are exhibited by
the city’s trendy teens who strut their dis-
tinctive ‘Bangkok’ look in the various shop-
ping areas.Siam Square OPEN-AIR MALL
(Map p 86 ; btwn Th Phra Ram I & Th Phayathai, BTS
Siam) This low-slung commercial universe is
a network of some 12 soi lined with trendy,
fl y-by-night boutiques, many of which are
the fi rst ventures of young designers. It’s a
great place to pick up designs you’re guar-
anteed not to fi nd anywhere else, not to
mention the best place for urban naturalists
to observe Bangkok teens in their natural
habitat.It’s Happened to be
a Closet WOMEN’S FASHION
(Map p 86 ; 1st fl , Siam Paragon, Th Phra Ram I; BTS
Siam) Garbled grammar aside, this is a bril-
liant place to stock up on locally designed
and made togs – think Th Khao San meets
Siam Paragon. Also available at Emporium
and Siam Square.Flynow WOMEN’S FASHION
(Map p 86 ; http://www.fl ynowbangkok.com; 2nd fl , Gaysorn
Plaza, cnr Th Ploenchit & Th Ratchadamri; BTS Chit
Lom) A longstanding leader in Bangkok’s
home-grown fashion scene, Flynow creates
feminine couture that has caught the eyes
of several international shows. There are
branches at Siam Center and Central World
Plaza.Tango LEATHER GOODS
(Map p 86 ; http://www.tango.co.th; 2nd fl , Gaysorn Plaza,
cnr Th Ploenchit & Th Ratchadamri; BTS Chit Lom)
This home-grown brand specialises in funky
leather goods, but you may not even recog-
nise the medium under the layers of bright
embroidery and chunky jewels. Also avail-
able at Siam Center.Jim Thompson SILK
(Map p 82 ; http://www.jimpthompson.com; 9 Th Sura-
wong; h9am-9pm; BTS Sala Daeng, MRT Si Lom)
The surviving business of the international
promoter of Thai silk, this, the largest Jim
Thompson shop, sells colourful silk hand-
kerchiefs, placemats, wraps and pillow
cushions. Just up the road is the company’s
factory outlet (Map p 82 ; 149/4-6 Th Surawong;
h9am-6pm) that sells discontinued patterns
at a signifi cant discount. Handicrafts & Decor
The tourist markets have tons of factory-
made pieces that pop up all along the tour-
ist route. The shopping centres sell products
with a little better quality at proportionally
higher prices, but the independent shops
sell the best items all round.BARGAINING 101Many of your purchases in Bangkok will involve an ancient skill that has long been aban-
doned in the West: bargaining. Contrary to what you’ll see on a daily basis on Th Khao
San, bargaining (in Thai, đòr rahkah) is not a terse exchange of numbers and animosity.
Rather, bargaining Thai style is a generally friendly transaction where two people try to
agree on a price that is fair to both of them.
The fi rst rule of bargaining is to have a general idea of the price. Ask around at a few
vendors to get a rough notion. When you’re ready to buy, it’s generally a good strategy
to start at 50% of the asking price and work up from there. If you’re buying several of
an item, you have much more leverage to request and receive a lower price. If the seller
immediately agrees to your fi rst price you’re probably paying too much, but it’s bad
form to bargain further at this point. In general, keeping a friendly, fl exible demeanour
throughout the transaction will almost always work in your favour. And remember, only
begin bargaining if you’re really planning on buying the item. Most importantly, there’s
simply no point in getting angry or upset over a few baht. The locals, who inevitably have
less money than you, never do this.