Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
MURRAY
RIVER
Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
SLEEPING
&EATING
Adel Aide & South Au
Str Ali A
BARMERA
&AROUND
4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Mannum ̈Motel ̈ MOTEL$$
(%08-8569 1808; www �mannummotel�com �au;
76 Cliff St, Mannum; d/f from $130/150;aW)
This unobtrusive brown-brick ’80s number
squats on a rise above the ferry crossing
at Mannum. Some of the larger units have
kitchenettes if you don’t fancy the in-house
bistro or a trip to the pub for dinner.Mannum ̈Caravan ̈Park ̈ CARAVANPARK$
(%08-85691402; www �mannumcaravanpark�com �
au; Purnong Rd, Mannum; unpowered/powered
sites $25/29,cabins/villasfrom $64/120;aiW)
A clean-cut caravan park right on the river
next to the Mannum ferry crossing. Ducks
and water hens patrol the lawns, and there’s
a pool table in the games room if it’s raining.
Lots of shade-giving gums.Waikerie ̈Hotel ̈Motel ̈HOTEL-MOTEL$
(%08-85412999;www �waikeriehotel�com; 2Mc-
Coy St, Waikerie; d $79-139;aW) Waikerie’s
main-street pub has clean, affordable hotel
rooms (all with bathroom, rather unusual-
ly) and updated motel rooms out the back.
The oldest part of the pub burnt down in
2012, two days shy of its 100th birthday!
The bistro does pub-grub classics (mains
$16 to $35, serving noon to 2pm and 6pm
to 8pm).Murray ̈River ̈Queen ̈ RIVERBOAT$
(%08-8541 2651; www �murrayriverqueen�com �
au; LeonardNormanDr, Waikerie;dm $30, dwith-
out/withbathroomfrom $55/90) When it’s not
cruising the Murray, this 1974 paddleboatberths at Waikerie and offers basic bunk-
rooms (a tad shabby and dim but undenia-
bly novel) and more upmarket doubles. The
onboard cafe is good for a light lunch (items
$6 to $15, open 8.30am to 4pm Wednesday
to Sunday). It’s managed by the local cara-
van park.Pretoria ̈Hotel ̈ PUB $$
(%08-8569 1109; www �pretoriahotel�com �au; 50
Randell St, Mannum; mains $16-28;hnoon-2pm
&6-8pm) The family-friendly Pretoria (built
1900) has a vast bistro and deck fronting
the river, and plates up big steaks, roo fil-
lets and parmas plus Asian salads and good
seafood. When the 1956 flood swamped the
town they kept pouring beer from the 1st-
floor balcony!88 Information
Mannum Visitor Information Centre(%08-
8569 1303,1300 626 686; www �psmarion�com;
6RandellSt, Mannum;h9am-5pmMon-Fri,
10am-4pmSat &Sun) Cruiseand houseboat
bookings,Mannum Historic Walksbrochures
and the Museum of River History�Barmera & Around
On the shallow shores of Lake Bonney
(upon which world land-speed record-
holder Donald Campbell unsuccessfully at-
tempted to break his water-speed record in
1964), snoozy Barmera (population 4290)
was once a key town on the overland stock
route from NSW. These days the local pas-
sion for both kinds of music (country and
western) lends a simple optimism to pro-
ceedings. Kingston-On-Murray (population
260; aka Kingston OM) is a tiny town en
route to Waikerie.1 ̈Sights ̈& ̈Activities
The once ephemeral Lake ̈Bonney has been
transformed into a permanent lake ringed
by large, drowned red gums, whose stark
branches are often festooned with birds. If
you’re feeling uninhibited, there’s a nudist
beach at Pelican ̈Point ̈Holiday ̈Park (www�
riverland�net �au/pelicanpoint) on the lake’s west-
ern shore.
There are wildlife reserves with walking
trails and camping (per car $7) at Moorook
on the road to Loxton, and Loch Luna across
the river from Kingston-On-Murray. Loch
Luna backs onto the Overland Corner Ho-
tel. Both reserves have nature trails and areDON’T ̈PAY ̈
THE ̈FERRYMANAs the Murray curls abstractly across
eastern SA, roads (on far more linear
trajectories) invariably bump into it.
Dating back to the late 19th century, a
culture of free, 24-hour, winch-driven
ferries has evolved to shunt vehicles
across the water. Your car is guided
onto the punts by burly, bearded,
fluoro-clad ferrymen, who lock safety
gates into position then shunt you
across to the other side. There are 11
ferries in operation, the most useful
of which are those at Mannum, Swan
Reach and Waikerie. Turn off your
headlights if you’re waiting for the ferry
at night so you don’t bedazzle the ap-
proaching skipper.