Australia 17 - Adelaide & South Australia (Chapter)

(Darren Dugan) #1
Adel Aide & South Au

Str Ali A

YORKE

PENINSULA

Adel Aide & South Au

Str Ali A

SLEEPING

&EATING

Adel Aide & South Au

Str Ali A

EAST

COAST

Cornish ̈Kitchen ̈ FAST FOOD$
(10-12 Ellen  St;  items $4-8; h9am-4pm Mon-Fri,
9am-2pmSat) After a hard day’s copper min-
ing, swing your shovel into the Cornish
Kitchen for the ultimate Cornish pastie.


Point Turton


For a far-flung Yorkes experience, try Point
Turton (population 250) in the southwest.
The breezy Tavern ̈ on ̈ Turton (%08-8854
5063; www �tavernonturton�com;  154  Bayview Rd;
mains$18-36;h9am-2pm&6pm-8pm) is here,
and the superfriendly Point ̈Turton ̈Cara-
van ̈Park (%08-88545222;www �pointturtoncp�
com �au;  Bayview Rd;  unpowered/powered sites
$22/29, cabins $55-150;aW), with lovely
grassy sites and cabins overlooking the sea.
You can learn to surf near here with Nep-
tunes ̈Surf ̈Coaching (%0417 839 142; www �
neptunes�net �au; 2hr lessonsfrom $45).


East Coast


The east-coast road along Gulf St Vincent
traces the coast within 1km or 2km of the
water. En route, roads dart east to sandy
beaches and holiday towns. Like the subur-
ban Adelaide beaches across the gulf, this is
prime crab-fishing territory.
Most of the coastal towns have a pub and
a caravan park or camping ground, includ-
ing unpretentious Port ̈Vincent (population
480). The closest thing Yorkes has to a back-
packers is the utilitarian Tuckerway ̈Hostel
(%08-8853-7285; tuckerway14@bigpond�com;
14 Lime Kiln Rd, Port Vincent;dm from $21; a) –
a concrete-block bunker uphill from the
town containing simple dorms and a large
kitchen.
Further south, Edithburgh (population
400) is roughly aligned with Adelaide’s lati-
tude, and has a tidal ̈swimming ̈pool in a
small cove. From the cliff-tops, views extend
offshore to sandy Troubridge ̈Island ̈Con-
servation ̈ Park (www�environment�sa �gov �au).
You can stay the night at the Troubridge ̈Is-
land ̈Lighthouse (%08-88526290;www �light
house�net �au; per adult/childincl transfers$80/30,
min charge$320). It sleeps 10; BYO food and
linen. Little penguins still live here, but the
island is steadily eroding − what the sea
wants, the sea will have...
Back on the mainland, the surprisingly
hip Tipper’s ̈ B&B (%08-8852 6181;  www �tip
persedithburgh�com �au; 35 BlancheSt; dfrom $150;
a) is on Edithburgh’s main street, with two


suites occupying an ochre-coloured former
blacksmiths (1890s).

South Coast & Innes
National Park
The peninsula’s south coast is largely shel-
tered from the Southern Ocean’s fury by
Kangaroo Island, so there are some great
swimming beaches along here. The surf
finds its way through around Troubridge
Point and Cape Spencer, where the Cut-
loose ̈Yorkes ̈Classic surf comp happens
every October.
Cape Spencer is part of Innes ̈National ̈
Park (%08-88543200;www �environment�sa �gov �
au; StenhouseBay Rd, StenhouseBay; per car $10;
hvisitor centre 10 �30am-3pm Wed-Sun), where
sheer cliffs plunge into indigo waters and
rocky offshore islands hide small coves and
sandy beaches. Marion ̈Bay (www �marionbay�
com �au), just outside the park, and Sten-
house ̈Bay and Pondalowie ̈Bay, both with-
in the park, are the main local settlements.
Pondalowie Bay has a bobbing lobster-fishing
fleet and a gnarly surf beach (keep one eye on
the swell if you’re swimming).
The rusty ribs of the 711-tonne steel
barque Ethel, which foundered in 1904, arc
forlornly from the sands just south of Pon-
dalowie Bay. Follow the sign past the Cape
Spencer turn-off to the ghost-town ruins
of Inneston, a gypsum-mining community
abandoned in 1930.

4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
oMarion ̈Bay ̈Motel ̈& ̈Tavern ̈ MOTEL$$
(%08-8854 4044; www �marionbaymotel�com �au;
Jetty Rd, MarionBay; s/d/tr$120/140/160;aW)
This place is the highlight of tiny Marion
Bay, with a wing of five spiffy motel rooms
out the back (white walls, new TVs, nice
linen). The glass-fronted tavern next door
(mains $16 to $32, serving noon to 2pm and
6pm to 8pm) looks out over the bay and puts
a southeast Asian spin on pub standards (try
the Vietnamese chicken salad).

Innes ̈National ̈Park ̈ CAMPGROUND,LODGE$
(%08-8854 3200; www �environment�sa �gov �au;
camping per  person/car $5/16, lodges $100-170)
Innes National Park has seven bushy camp
sites. Our favourite spot is Pondalowie, or
try Cable Bay for beach access, Surfers for
surfing or Browns Beach for fishing. Alter-
natively, the heritage lodges at Inneston
sleep four to 10 people and have showers
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