Adel Aide & South AuStr Ali AFLINDERSRANGESAdel Aide & South AuStr Ali ATOURSAdel Aide & South AuStr Ali ASOUTHERNRANGESTOWNSthe last mechanic until Norseman in WA,
1038km away. There’s a very basic dorm, and
worn but comfy motel rooms with updated
bathrooms. There’s a bar/restaurant onsite,
open 11am until late (meals $15 to $35).
Nullarbor ̈Roadhouse ̈ MOTEL$
(%08-86256271; www �nullarbornet�com �au/towns/
nullarbor�html;Eyre Hwy, Nullarbor;unpowered/
poweredsites$20/25, budgetroomss/d/tr
$47/57/67,motels/d/tr$125/145/165;a) Close
to the Head of Bight whale-watching area,
this roadhouse is a real oasis. The onsite
bar/restaurant is open from 7am to 10pm
(meals $15 to $30).
Border ̈Village ̈Motel ̈ MOTEL$
(%08-90393474; www �nullarbornet�com �au/towns/
borderVillage�html;EyreHwy, BorderVillage;
unpowered/powered sites $15/20, budget
roomss/d/tr$40/60/70, motels/d/ffrom
$95/110/120;ais) Just 50m from the WA
border, this motel has a variety of modern
rooms and cabins and a licensed restau-
rant (meals $13 to $25, serving from noon
to 2pm and 6pm to 8pm).
FLINDERS RANGES
Known simply as ‘the Flinders’, this an-
cient mountain range is an iconic South
Australian environment. Jagged peaks and
escarpments rise up north of Port Augusta
and track 400km north to Mt Hopeless.
The colours here are remarkable: as the
day stretches out, the mountains shift from
mauve mornings to midday chocolates and
ochre-red sunsets.
Before Europeans arrived, the Flinders
were prized by the Adnyamathanha peoples
for their red ochre deposits, which had me-
dicinal and ritual uses. Sacred caves, rock
paintings and carvings exist throughout
the region. In the wake of white exploration
came villages, farms, country pubs, wheat
farms and cattle stations, many of which
failed under the unrelenting sun.
The cooler Southern Ranges are studded
with stands of river red gums and country
hamlets with cherubic appeal. In the arid
Northern Ranges, the desert takes a hold:
the scenery here is stark, desolate and very
beautiful.
Online, see http://www.flindersoutback.com.
T ̈Tours
See Heading Bush (p715).
Bookabee ̈Tours ̈ INDIGENOUS
(%0408 209 593, 08-82359954;www �bookabee�com �au; 2-/3-/4-daytours $995/1520/2025) (^) S
Highly rated indigenous-run tours to the
Flinders Ranges and outback, departing
Adelaide, including quality accommoda-
tion, meals, cultural tours, activities and
interpretation.
Swagabout ̈Tours ̈ WILDERNESS
(%0408 845 378; www �swagabouttours�com �au)
Dependable Flinders Ranges trips including
Quorn and Wilpena (plus Arkaroola on the
four-day jaunt), and can be extended to Coo-
ber Pedy. Costs per day are around $300/500
with camping/hotel accommodation.
Wallaby ̈Tracks ̈Adventure ̈Tours ̈WILDERNESS
(%0428 486 655; www �wallabytracks�com; 1-/4-
day tours $250/1200) Small-group 4WD tours
around the Ranges and Wilpena Pound.
One-day tours ex-Quorn or Port Augusta;
four-day tours ex-Adelaide.
Adventure ̈Tours ̈Australia ̈ WILDERNESS
(%08-8132 8130, 1300 654 604; www �adven
turetours�com �au) Popular small-group tours
through the Flinders region and beyond;
seven-day Adelaide to Alice Springs tours
$1020.
Groovy ̈Grape ̈ WILDERNESS
(%08-84401640, 1800 661 177; www �groovygrape�
com �au) Adelaide to Coober Pedy and back
over four days, via the Flinders Ranges will
cost $495.
88 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away
BUS
Premier Stateliner(www�premierstateliner�
com �au) Daily busesfrom Adelaideto Port Pirie
($43,3¼ hours)�
Yorke Peninsula Coaches(%08-88212755;
www �ypcoaches�com �au) Runs aFridaybus
betweenPort Augustaand Quorn($6, 40 min-
utes),and aThursdaybus betweenPort Pirie
and Melrose($6, 1¼ hours)�
TRAIN
PichiRichiRailway(p786)hastrainsbetween
PortAugustaandQuorn(twohours)every
Saturday�
Southern Ranges Towns
Port ̈Pirie (population 13,200) is a big lead-
and zinc-smelting town on the edge of the
Southern Flinders. The Nyrstar smelter
dominates the skyline, but the town itself