PeloPonnese
L A K O N I A
PeloPonnese
EATING
& Dr
INKING
PeloPonnese
N E A P O L I
three individually conceived suites, Moni
Emvasis doesn’t hold back with luxurious
touches, from rainshowers and jacuzzis to
oversized, sumptuous beds. The sea views
from the balconies of the Junior and the
Deluxe suites are the best, but the Moni
Emvasis suite has a decadent, medieval am-
bience with its vaulted ceilings and marble
fireplace. Extensive breakfast showcases lo-
cal produce.5 Eating & Drinking
Self-caterers will find most things at the
Lefkakis supermarket, just past the post
office in Gefyra. Tavernas on Monemvasia’s
main street all serve similar fare.Matoula TAVErNA €
(%27320 61660; mains €8-13) Of all the tav-
ernas on the main street, Matoula is the
oldest, has the best sea views from its
vine-trellis-shaded terrace, and serves a re-
liable selection of classic dishes including
dolmadhes, grilled calamari and courgette
fritters. All but the veggie dishes are a big
hit with the local cats, too.oChrisovoulo INTErNATIONAL €€€
(%27320 62022; http://www.chrisovoulo.gr; mains €14-
30; v) Monemvasia’s most imaginative res-
taurant by far, Chrisovoulo conjures up the
likes of quinoa salad, veal with morel sauce
and risotto with siglino pork from the Mani,
all with equal ease and flair. The service is
professional, the sea views fantastic and
there’s a serious local wine list to boot. The
three-course dinner menu is a steal at €25.oWine Tasting Kamara WINE BAr
(%6972319434, 27320 61704; glass of wine €3;
hnoon-late) During your perambulations,
you may stumble across this enchanting
11th-century wine cellar. The home of Byron
and Vivienne, its walls are decorated with
eclectica from a lifetime’s travels. Get talk-
ing to the gregarious retired owners over a
glass or two of Greek wine, and you may not
want to leave. Follow the ‘wine tasting’ signs
towards the waterfront.8 Information
ATMs, the post office (h7.30am-2pm Mon-fri),
police (%27320 61210; Spartis 137) and the
supermarket are all located in Gefyra. Malvasia
Travel (%27320 61752; h7.30am-2.30pm &
5.15-8pm Mon-Sat) in Gefyra sells tickets for
ferries.8 Getting There & Away
Buses leave from outside Malvasia Travel (p 156 )
just over the causeway in Gefyra. There are bus-
es to Athens (€30, six hours, at least four daily)
via Sparta (€10, 2½ hours), Tripoli (€15.50, 3½
hours) and Corinth Isthmus (€23, 4½ hours).8 Getting Around
The medieval kastro of Monemvasia is pedestrian
only, but cars and motorcycles can cross the
causeway. Parking is available on the left-hand
side of the narrow road skirting the rock. Alterna-
tively, park in the waterfront car park in Gefyra.
A shuttle bus (€1; h8am-midnight) ferries
visitors between Gefyra and the kastro every 30
minutes.Neapoli Νεάπολη
POP 2730
Neapoli (neh-ah-po-lih), close to the south-
ern tip of the eastern prong of the Pelopon-
nese, is the departure point for the Ionian
Island of Kythira, clearly visible across the
bay. You also pass through Neapoli to see the
Kastania Cave.
From March to December, a daily ferry
runs between Neapoli and Diakofti on Kythi-
ra (€11/44 per person/car, 1¼ hours). Tickets
are sold at Vatika Bay Shipping Agency
(%27340 24004; http://www.vatikabay.gr; h9am-9pm
summer, 2 hours before departure rest of year),
350m before the small bridge. Leave plenty
of time to find the place and buy the ticket.
KTEL (%27340 23222; http://www.ktel-lakonias.gr)
has buses from Neapoli to Athens (€33.70,
three daily) via Sparta (€14.20, three hours)THE CAVE OF KASTANIA
ΣΠΗΛΑΙΟ ΚΑΣΤΑΝΙΑThe extraordinary Kastania Cave
(%27343 60100; http://www.monemvasia.gr;
adult/concession €7/3; h10am-4pm Sat &
Sun, additional seasonal dates), located at
the end of a spectacularly winding 17km
route northeast of Neapoli, contains
some of the best examples of rare sta-
lactites and stalagmites in Europe, esti-
mated to be around 3 million years old.
Guided tours in English depart hourly;
as you walk around a raised and lit 3km
circuit, guides are quick to point out
octopi, exotic plants and otherworldly
creatures cast in stone. Call ahead to
double-check opening times.