India 15 - Rajasthan (Chapter)

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been serving locals since 1985 and is still an
atmospheric, down-to-earth, roadside eating
experience. Its open-sided structure allows
you to see your paneer kebabs or chicken
tandoori being grilled on the barbecue out
front, while you work your way through the
simple but tasty curries on the main menu.
Does half portions. No alcohol.

Old ̈Takeaway ̈The ̈Kebab ̈Shop ̈KEBABS $
(151 Mi Road; kebabs ₹80-120; h6-11pm) One of a
few similarly named road-side kebab shops
that open up each evening on this stretch of
MI Road. This one (at No 151) is the origi-
nal (so we’re told) and the best (we agree).
It knocks up outstanding tandoori kebabs,
including paneer sheesh, mutton sheesh and
the mouthwatering tandoori chicken. Pull
up a stool and tuck in.

The ̈Doors ̈ iND iAN $
(Khandaka Mansion, by Raj Mandir Cinema; mains
₹50-100, thalis ₹65-85; h7am-10pm) Excellent-
value local favourite with a range of tasty
vegetarian dishes including South Indian
and thalis (until 4pm). Our particular fa-
vourite is the paneer do pyaza, with its thick
onion sauce; perfect for being mopped up
by the rotis, which here are as thick and tex-
tured as naan bread, but only ₹5 each! They
do half-portions too, making this ideal for
solo travellers. The restaurant is behind the
McDonald’s to the left of Raj Mandir Cinema,
as you’re looking at the cinema. No alcohol.

Rawat ̈Kachori ̈ SWEETS $
(Station Rd; kachori ₹20, lassis ₹25; h6am-10pm)
Head to this exceedingly popular place for
great Indian sweets (₹10 each, or ₹120 to
₹300 per kg), cooling, creamy lassi (yoghurt
drink) and its signature kachori (spicy,
round-shaped vegetable samosas).

Chitra ̈Cafe ̈ CAFE $
(Hotel Arya Niwas, Sansar Chandra Marg; mains
₹40-110; h7am-9.45pm) Hotel Arya Niwas’
charming Chitra Cafe conjures up images of
a bygone colonial era, with its rattan tables
and chairs scattered along a covered terrace
overlooking the hotel’s cooling front lawn.
It’s great value too, especially if you plump
for the thali (₹125). Also does home-made
cakes and cookies, plus shakes and safe-to-
eat ice creams.

Baskin ̈Robbins ̈ SWEETS $
(Sanjay Marg; ice creams from ₹50; hnoon-
11.30pm) Safe-to-eat ice creams from the de-
pendable international chain.

Peacock ̈Rooftop ̈Restaurant ̈MU lTiCU iSiNE $$
(%2373700; Hari Kishan Somani Marg, Hotel Pearl
Palace; mains ₹70-180; h7am-11pm) Hotel Pearl
Palace’s pride and joy, Peacock is one of the
best hotel rooftop restaurants you’ll find.
The traveller-friendly atmosphere is relaxed,
the view towards Hathroi Fort is romantic
and the beer is ice cold. Most importantly,
though, the food is mouthwatering. A
number of world cuisines are on offer; all
are prepared well, but it’s the Indian dishes
that truly hit the spot, particularly the tan-
doori kebabs. They also do fresh juices, filter
coffee and breakfast croissants.

Handi ̈Restaurant ̈ NORTH iND iAN $$
(M i Rd; mains ₹140-300; hnoon-3.30pm & 6-11pm)
The Indian food here is as good as at any
top restaurant in town, but the atmosphere
is far less stuffy. Popular with local fami-
lies, Handi is decked out like a large tradi-
tional village eatery, with a dried-mud floor,
bamboo-lined walls and wicker roofing. It
offers scrumptious tandoori and barbecued
dishes as well as rich Mughlai curries. In
the evenings it sets up a smoky kebab stall
at the entrance to the restaurant. No beer

Moti ̈Mahal ̈Delux ̈NORTH iND iAN $$
(%4017733; Mi Rd; mains ₹170-300; h11am-11pm)
The original Moti Mahal opened in Pesha-
war (in modern-day Pakistan), pre-partition,
but there are now branches all across India
delivering its renowned butter chicken to
the masses. The kebabs here are fabulously
succulent, and they do a mean pista kulfi
(pistachio-flavoured sweet similar to ice
cream). Beer (from ₹115) and wine (from
₹250) available.

Four ̈Seasons ̈ VEGETARiAN $$
(%2374600; Bhagat Singh Marg; mains ₹130-180;
h11am-5pm & 7-11pm) One of Jaipur’s best
vegetarian restaurants, this is a vastly popu-
lar place on two levels, with a glass wall to
the kitchens. There’s a great range of dishes
on offer, including tasty Rajasthani speciali-
ties, South Indian dosas and a selection of
pizzas. No alcohol.

Natraj ̈ VEGETARiAN $$
(%2375804; Mi Rd; mains ₹150-250; h9am-11pm)
This classy but low-key vegetarian place has
been going since the 1960s and has an ex-
tensive menu featuring North Indian, Con-
tinental and Chinese cuisine. There’s a good
selection of thalis and South Indian food –
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