Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
DRiNK iNG
Rajasthan
JA iPUR
the dosa paper masala is delicious – as well
as Indian sweets. No alcohol.
Copper ̈Chimney ̈ iND iAN $$
(%2372275; Mi Rd, Maya Mansions; mains ₹150-
400; hnoon-3.30pm & 6.30-11pm) Copper
Chimney is casual, almost elegant, and defi-
nitely welcoming, with the requisite waiter
army and a fridge of cold beer (from ₹100).
It offers excellent veg and nonveg Indian
cuisine, including aromatic Rajasthani spe-
cials. There is also Continental and Chinese
food and a small selection of Indian wine,
but the curry and beer combos are hard to
beat.
Niro’s ̈ iND iAN $$$
(%2374493; Mi Rd; mains ₹200-500; h10am-
11pm) Established in 1949, Niro’s is a long-
standing favourite on MI Rd. It’s very plush
these days – and has prices to match – but
the quality of food is as good as ever; with
plenty of Rajasthani specialities amongst
its extensive Indian menu. Also does some
Chinese and international cuisine, but the
Indian dishes are definitely the pick. Beer
from ₹160.
Little ̈Italy ̈ iTA li AN $$$
(%4022444; Prithviraj Marg, 3rd fl, KK Square;
mains ₹300-500; hnoon-11pm) Arguably the
best Italian restaurant in town, Little Italy
is part of a small national chain that offers
excellent vegetarian pasta, risotto and wood-
fired pizzas in cool, contemporary surround-
ings. The menu is extensive and includes
some Mexican items and first-rate Italian
desserts. Also has a decent wine list.
5 Old City
Ganesh ̈Restaurant ̈ VEGETARiAN $
(Nehru Bazaar; mains ₹60-120; h9am-11.30pm)
This no-nonsense, pocket-sized rooftop res-
taurant has a fantastic location on the top of
the Old City wall near New Gate. The cook
is in a pit on one side of the wall, so you can
check out your great-value vegetarian food
as it’s being prepared. There’s an easy-to-
miss signpost, but it’s up a narrow staircase
beside shop No 10.
LMB ̈ VEGETARiAN $$
(%2560845; Johari Bazaar; mains ₹150-250;
h8am-11pm) Laxmi Misthan Bhandar (LMB)
is an upmarket sattvik (vegetarian) restau-
rant in the Old City that’s been going strong
since 1954. A welcoming air-conditioned ref-
uge from frenzied Johari Bazaar, LMB is a
bit of an institution with its singular decor,
attentive waiters and extensive sweet coun-
ter. It’s also very popular with tourists these
days. The Rajasthan thali is excellent, as is
its signature kulfa, a fusion of kulfi and fa-
looda with dry fruits and saffron.6 ̈Drinking
oLassiwala ̈ CAFE
(M i Rd; h7.30am till sold out) This famous,
much-imitated lassi institution is a simple
place that whips up fabulous, creamy lassis
in a clay cup (small/large ₹17/34). Get here
early to avoid disappointment; they usu-
ally sell out by 4pm. Will the real Lassiwala
please stand up? Imitators abound, it’s the
one that says ‘Shop 312’ and ‘Since 1944’, di-
rectly next to an alleyway.100% ̈Rock ̈ BAR
(Hotel Shikha, Yudhishthir Marg, C-Scheme; beer
from ₹160; h10am-11.30pm) Attached to, but
separate from Hotel Shikha (and formerly
known as TC Bar), this is the closest thing
there is to a beer garden in Jaipur, with
plenty of outdoor seating as well as air-
conditioned side rooms and a clubby main
room with a small dance floor. Two-for-one
beer offers are common, making this popu-
lar with local youngsters.Brewberry’s ̈ CAFE
(G-2 Fortune Heights, opp iCiCi Bank; coffee from
₹40; h8am-midnight) Modern wi-fi-enabled
cafe with fresh coffee and a good mix of
Indian and Western food and snacks. Has
some patio seating.Café ̈Coffee ̈Day ̈ CAFE
(M i Rd, Country inn Hotel; coffee ₹60-90; h10am-
10pm) Dependable, air-conditioned branch
of India’s most popular coffee-shop chain.
There’s another one on the way to Bani Park.Hotel ̈Sangam ̈Bar ̈ BAR
(Hotel Sangam, Motilal Atal Marg; beer from ₹75,
shots from ₹30; h9am-11pm) Low-lit base-
ment bar serving beer, spirits and a few In-
dian dishes and snacks. The beer and wine
shop next door sells big bottles of Kingfisher
for ₹100.3 ̈Entertainment
Jaipur isn’t a big late-night party town,
although many hotels put on some sort
of evening music, dance or puppet show.
English-language films are occasionally