Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
SHEKHAWAT
i
reserve entrance costs ₹1600, plus guide fee
(₹150).
Bhangarh ̈ HiSTORiC S iTE
Around 55km from Sariska, beyond the in-
ner park sanctuary and out in open coun-
tryside, is this deserted, well-preserved and
notoriously haunted city. Founded in 1631 by
Madho Singh, it had 10,000 dwellings, but
was suddenly deserted about 300 years ago
for reasons that remain mysterious.
Bhangarh can be reached by a bus that
runs twice daily through the sanctuary (₹35)
to nearby Golaka village. Check what time
the bus returns, otherwise you risk getting
stranded.
T ̈Tours
Private cars, including taxis, are limited to
sealed roads. The best way to visit the park
is by 4WD gypsy (open-topped, takes six
passengers), which can explore off the main
tracks. Gypsy safaris start at the park en-
trance. Each passenger pays ₹450 for park
entrance, then shares the gypsy costs (₹1260
per vehicle) with the other passengers.
Guides are also available (₹250 per vehicle).
Bookings can be made at the Forest ̈Re-
ception ̈Office (%2841333; Jaipur Rd), direct-
ly opposite the Hotel Sariska Palace, which
is where buses will drop you.
4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
Alwar ̈Bagh ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%2945151412; http://www.alwarbagh.com; r from
₹3999; as) This is a very peaceful option
located in the village of Dhawala, between
Alwar (14km) and Sariska (19km). They can
arrange pick-up and drop-off from Alwar,
and can also arrange Sariska safaris. The
bright heritage-style hotel boasts traditional
decor, spotless rooms and romantic tents,
an organic orchard, a garden restaurant
(breakfast/lunch/dinner ₹250/400/500) and
a gorgeous swimming pool (₹150; open 6am
to 7pm). You pass the hotel (on your right)
on the bus from Alwar to Sariska.
Sariska ̈Tiger ̈Heaven ̈ HOTEl $$$
(%224815; http://www.sariskatigerheaven.com; s/d with
full board ₹5500/6500; as) Run by wildlife
expert Dinesh Durani, this place offers
isolated luxury lodgings about 3km west
of the bus stop at Thanagazi village (free
pick-up is on offer). Rooms are set in stone-
and-tile cottages and have big beds and
windowed alcoves. Staff can arrange jeeps
and guides to the park and pick-up from
Jaipur (₹1200).RTDC ̈Hotel ̈Tiger ̈Den ̈HOTEl $$$
(%2841342; s/d incl breakfast & lunch or dinner
₹1600/2250, with AC ₹2100/2900; a) Hotel Ti-
ger Den is a quasi-Soviet block, backed by
a rambling garden. Accommodation and
meals are drab, but the rooms have balco-
nies and occupy a pleasant setting close to
the reserve entrance. Bring a mosquito net
or repellent.8 Getting ̈There ̈& ̈Away
Sariska is 35km from Alwar, a convenient town
from which to approach the reserve. There are
frequent buses from Alwar (₹25, one hour) and
on to Jaipur (₹100). Buses stop in front of the
Forest Reception Office. The park entrance and
Hotel Tiger Den are both a short walk beyond
here (in the direction of Jaipur), on your left.Shekhawati
Far less visited than other parts of Rajas-
than, the Shekhawati region is most fa-
mous for its extraordinary painted havelis
(traditional, ornately decorated residences
which enclose one or more courtyards),
highlighted with dazzling, often whimsi-
cal, murals. Part of the region’s appeal and
mystique is due to these works of art be-
ing found in tiny towns, connected to each
other by single-track roads that run through
lonely, arid countryside. Today it seems curi-
ous that such care, attention and money was
lavished on these out-of-the-way houses, but
from the 14th century onwards Shekhawati’s
towns were important trading posts on the
caravan routes from Gujarati ports.
What makes the artwork on Shekha-
wati’s havelis so fascinating is the manner
in which their artists combined traditional
subjects, such as mythology, religious scenes
and images of the family, with contempo-
rary concerns, including brand-new inven-
tions and accounts of current events, many
of which these isolated painters rendered
straight from their imagination.Nawalgarh
% 01594 / POP 60,000
Nawalgarh is a small nontouristy town al-
most at the very centre of the region, and
makes a great base for exploring. It boasts
several fine havelis, a colourful, mostly