Rajasthan
EASTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG
Rajasthan
PUSHKAR
laneways north of Sadar Bazaar. Rooms vary
in size, but are colourful and spotless, and the
beds are comfortable. The roof is a pleasant
retreat for meals or relaxation.Bharatpur ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $
(%2772320; [email protected]
.in; r ₹300-600; a) Lovely location overlook-
ing the lake, and although very few of the
rooms have a lake view there are plenty of
common seating areas that do. Basic, but
friendly.Hotel ̈Paramount ̈Palace ̈ HOTEl $
(%2772428; http://www.pushkar-paramount.com; r ₹200-
1000; W) Perched on one of the highest
points in town, and overlooking an old tem-
ple, this welcoming hotel has excellent views
over the town and lake (and lots of stairs).
The rooms vary widely. The best ones (106,
108, 109) have lovely balconies, stained
glass and are good value; smaller rooms
can be dingy. Staff are laidback, there’s wi-fi
throughout and a dizzyingly magical rooftop
restaurant.Milkman ̈Guesthouse ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2773452; [email protected]; dm/r
without bathroom ₹100/250, r ₹300-700; aiW)
A cosy guesthouse in a backstreet location,
the friendly Milkman has brightly painted
rooms with plenty of character, as well as
a 2nd-floor cafe and a 3rd-floor garden
lawn.Alka ̈Guest ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2773082, 9782642546; Brahm Chowk, Badi
Basti; s/d ₹300/400) Run by a welcoming but
quiet family, Alka has rooms overlooking a
large, tree-shaded courtyard. Each is small
and basic but neat and tidy, and they come
with unusual dressing areas that lend more
space. Common bathrooms only, but show-
ers are always hot.oInn ̈Seventh ̈Heaven ̈ HER iTAGE HOTEl $$
(%5105455; http://www.inn-seventh-heaven.com; Chotti
Basti; r ₹950-2800; aiW) You enter this
lovingly converted haveli through heavy
wooden doors into an incense-perfumed
courtyard, centred with a marble fountain.
There are 12 individually decorated roomsPUSHKAR ̈CAMEL ̈FAIR
Come the month of Kartika, the eighth lunar month of the Hindu calendar and one
of the holiest, Thar camel drivers spruce up their ships of the desert and start the
long walk to Pushkar in time for Kartik Purnima (Full Moon). Each year around
200,000 people converge here, bringing with them some 50,000 camels, horses
and cattle. The place becomes an extraordinary swirl of colour, sound and move-
ment, thronging with musicians, mystics, tourists, traders, animals, devotees and
camera crews.
Trading begins a week before the official fair (a good time to arrive to see the seri-
ous business), but by the time the RTDC mela (fair) starts, business takes a back seat
and the bizarre sidelines (snake charmers, children balancing on poles etc) jostle onto
centre stage. Even the cultural program is bizarre: moustache contests, turban-tying
contests or seeing how many people can balance on a camel.
It’s hard to believe, but this seething mass is all just a sideshow. Kartik Purnima is
when Hindu pilgrims come to bathe in Pushkar’s sacred waters. The religious event
builds in tandem with the camel fair in a wild, magical crescendo of incense, chanting
and processions to dousing day, the last night of the fair, when thousands of devotees
wash away their sins and set candles afloat on the holy lake.
Although fantastical, mystical and a one-off, it must be said that it’s also crowded,
touristy, noisy (light sleepers should bring earplugs) and tacky. Those affected by dust
and/or animal hair should bring appropriate medication. However, it’s a grand epic, and
not to be missed if you’re anywhere within camel-spitting distance.
It usually takes place in October or November and because dates can change the
following are indicative only:
̈ ̈2013: 9 to 17 November
̈ ̈2014: 30 Oct to 6 November
̈ ̈2015: 18 to 25 November