Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Si GHTS
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
1 ̈Sights
Jaisalmer ̈Fort ̈ FORT
Founded in 1156 by the Rajput ruler Jaisal
and reinforced by subsequent rulers, Jais-
almer ̈Fort was the focus of a number of
battles between the Bhatis, the Mughals
of Delhi and the Rathores of Jodhpur. You
enter the fort from its east side, near Gopa
Chowk, and pass through four massive gates
on the zigzagging route to the upper part.
The fourth gate opens into a square, Dashera
Chowk, where Jaisalmer Fort’s uniqueness
becomes apparent: this is a living fort, with
about 3000 people residing within its walls.
It’s honeycombed with narrow, winding
lanes which are lined with houses and tem-
ples – along with a large number of handi-
craft shops, guesthouses, restaurants and
massage/beauty parlours.
̈ ̈Fort Palace
(indian/foreigner incl compulsory audio guide
₹50/300, camera/video ₹100/200; h8am-6pm
Apr-Oct, 9am-6pm Nov-Mar) Towering over the
fort’s main square, and partly built on top
of the Hawa Pol (the fourth fort gate), is the
former rulers’ elegant seven-storey palace.
The 1½-hour audio-guide tour, available in
six languages, is included in your ticket price
(whether you want it or not). It’s worthwhile,
but you must deposit ₹2000 or an official
form of photo ID to get it. Highlights include
the mirrored and painted Rang Mahal (the
bedroom of the 18th-century ruler Mulraj
II), a gallery of finely wrought 15th-century
sculptures donated to the rulers by the
builders of the fort’s temples, and the spec-tacular 360-degree views from the rooftop.
One room contains an intriguing display of
stamps from the former Rajput states.
̈ ̈Jain Temples
(indian/foreigner ₹30/150, camera ₹50; hChan-
draprabhu 7am-1pm, other temples 11am-1pm)
Within the fort walls is a mazelike, inter-
connecting treasure trove of seven beautiful
yellow-sandstone Jain temples dating from
the 15th and 16th centuries. The intricate
carving almost rivals that of the marble Jain
temples in Ranakpur and Mt Abu, and has
an extraordinary quality because of the soft,
warm stone. Shoes and all leather items
must be removed before entering.
Chandraprabhu is the first temple you
come to, and you’ll find the ticket stand
here. Dedicated to the eighth tirthankar,
whose symbol is the moon, it was built
in 1509 and features fine sculpture in the
mandapa, whose intensely sculpted pil-
lars form a series of toranas. To the right
of Chandraprabhu is the tranquil Rikhab-
dev temple, with fine sculptures around the
walls, protected by glass cabinets, and pil-
lars beautifully sculpted with apsaras and
gods. Behind Chandraprabhu is Parasnath,
which you enter through a beautifully carved
torana culminating in an image of the Jain
tirthankar at its apex. A door to the south
leads to small Shitalnath, dedicated to the
10th tirthankar, whose image is composed
of eight precious metals. A door in the north
wall leads to the enchanting, dim chamber
of Sambhavanth – in the front courtyard,
Jain priests grind sandalwood in mortars forA ̈CASTLE ̈BUILT ̈ON ̈SAND
A decade ago the whole structure of Jaisalmer Fort was in danger of being under-
mined by water leakage from its antique drainage system. The main problem: material
progress, in the form of piped water for the fort’s inhabitants. Three of the ancient bas-
tions had collapsed and parts of the fort palace were leaning at an alarming rate.
Since then, British-based Jaisalmer ̈in ̈Jeopardy (www.jaisalmer-in-jeopardy.org) and
several Indian organisations, including the Indian ̈National ̈Trust ̈for ̈Art ̈& ̈Cultural ̈
Heritage (iNTACH; http://www.intach.org), have raised funds and carried out much-needed con-
servation works to save the fort. Most important has been the renewal of the fort’s drain-
age system and repaving of the streets, as well as repair works inside the fort palace.
Things have improved, although some conservationists still believe the fort’s struc-
ture is in danger, and there are calls for the fort’s inhabitants, and those who work in
the fort, to be forced to leave. The fort’s current population has been established since
the 1960s; before then, the fort’s inhabitants numbered in the few hundreds; made up
mostly of royal family and their workers, plus monks and priests connected to the fort’s
temples. Visitors should be aware of the fort’s fragile nature and conserve resources,
especially water, as much as possible. Accommodation outside the fort is available.