Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
SHOPP
iNG
Rajasthan
JA iSA lMER
Sun ̈Set ̈Palace ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $
(Fort; mains ₹90-200) This restaurant has floor
cushions and low tables on an airy terrace
on the fort’s west side. Pretty good vegetar-
ian Indian dishes are prepared, as well as
Chinese and Italian options. Beer available.
Desert ̈Boy’s ̈Dhani ̈ iND iAN $$
(mains ₹100-135; h11am-4pm & 7-11pm) An
unusual walled-garden restaurant where ta-
bles are spread around a large stone-paved
courtyard with a big tree. Rajasthani music
and dance is performed from 8pm to 10pm
most nights, and it’s a very pleasant place
to eat excellent, good-value Rajasthani
and other Indian veg dishes. Does beer too
(from ₹200).
Jaisal ̈Italy ̈ iTA li AN $$
(First Fort Gate; mains ₹120-200; h8.30am-
10.30pm; W) Though it’s run by the same fam-
ily as Lassi Shop, you won’t have to worry
about bhang-laced pizzas. Instead you’ll find
superb all-veg bruschetta, antipasti, pasta,
pizza, salad and desserts, plus Spanish ome-
lettes, served in an exotically decorated in-
door restaurant (cosy in winter, deliciously
air-conditioned in summer) or on a delight-
ful terrace with cinematic views atop the
lower fort walls. Fresh coffee. Free wi-fi.
Trio ̈ MU li TCU iSiNE $$
(%252733; Gandhi Chowk; mains ₹100-190) Un-
der a tented roof atop the wall of the Man-
dir Palace, this long-running restaurant
does Indian (including some Rajasthani
specialities), Chinese and Continental. The
thalis, biryanis and tandoori items are all
excellent, and the restaurant has a lot more
atmosphere than most places in town. Mu-
sicians play in the evening and there’s a par-
tial fort view.
Saffron ̈ MU lTiCU iSiNE $$
(Gandhi Chowk; mains ₹100-300) This romantic
open-air restaurant, on the spacious roof
terrace of Hotel Nachana Haveli, has candle-
lit tables overlooking a fountain courtyard
below. The Indian food – including tandoori
kebabs – is hard to beat, though the Italian
comes a close second. Has a range of beers
(small bottle ₹160) and a wine list.
1st ̈Gate ̈ iTA li AN $$$
(mains ₹150-300; h7am-11pm; W) A small but
excellent menu of authentic Italian dishes as
well as some delicious Indian food served on
a split-level, open-air terrace with dramatic
fort views. Also does good strong Italian cof-
fee (₹100 to ₹150) as well as some fine wines.7 ̈Shopping
Jaisalmer is famous for stunning embroi-
dery, bedspreads, mirror-work wall hang-
ings, oil lamps, stonework and antiques.
Watch out when buying silver items: the
metal is sometimes adulterated with bronze.Hari ̈Om ̈Jewellers ̈ HANDiCRAFTS
(Chougan Para, Fort; h10am-8.30pm) This fam-
ily of silversmiths makes beautiful, delicate
silver rings and bracelets featuring world
landmarks and Hindu gods. Asking prices
for rings start at ₹1800 (at a rate of ₹300 per
day’s work).Jaisalmer ̈Handloom ̈ HANDiCRAFTS
(www.jaisalmerhandloom.com; Court Rd; h9am-
10pm) Has a big array of bedspreads, tap-
estries, clothing (ready made and custom-
made, including silk) and other textiles,
made by its own workers and others, and
doesn’t belabour you with too much of a
hard sell.Desert ̈Handicrafts ̈Emporium ̈HANDiCRAFTS
(Court Rd; h9.30am-9.30pm) With some unu-
sual jewellery, paintings and all sorts of tex-
tiles and other knick-knacks, this is one ofAN ̈EXTRA-SPECIAL ̈
LASSI ̈SHOP ̈Jaisalmer’s, if not India’s, most famous
bhang-lassi shop is a simple, pocket-
sized place now called Lassi ̈Shop
(Gopa Chowk; normal lassi ₹25-60, bhang
lassi ₹50-120; h9.30am-10.30pm), but it
has been running under various guises
since the late ‘70s. It does a huge range
of normal lassis (yoghurt drinks), but
can add bhang (cannabis buds and
leaves mixed into a paste with milk,
ghee and spices) to any of them, which
transforms them into so-called ‘special
lassis’, and doubles their price. They
also do a range of bhang-laced cookies
(₹500 to ₹700 for 10) for travellers to
take on their camel safaris. Bhang is
perfectly legal here, but be aware that it
doesn’t agree with everyone so if you’re
not used to this sort of thing, go easy
on it (or avoid it altogether). It can be
very strong.