Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG & E AT iNG
Rajasthan
AROUND
Around Jaisalmer J AiSA lMER
Sam Sand Dunes
The silky Sam ̈sand ̈dunes (admission vehi-
cle/camel ₹50/80), 41km west of Jaisalmer
along a good sealed road (maintained by
the Indian army), are one of the most pop-
ular excursions from the city. The band of
dunes is about 2km long and is undeniably
one of the most picturesque in the region.
Some camel safaris camp here, but many
more people just roll in for sunset – to be
chased across the sands by dressed-up danc-
ing children and tenacious camel owners of-
fering short rides. Plenty more people stay
overnight in one of the couple of dozen tent
resorts near the dunes. All in all the place ac-
quires something of a carnival atmosphere
from late afternoon till the next morning,
making it somewhere to avoid if you’re after
a solitary desert sunset experience.
If you’re organising your own camel ride
on the spot, expect to pay ₹200 to ₹300 for
a one-hour sunset ride, but beware of tricks
from camel men such as demanding more
money en route.
Khuri
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The village of Khuri, 48km southwest of
Jaisalmer, makes a lovely base for exploring
the desert. There’s quite an extensive dune
area about 2km away, attracting its fair
share of sunset visitors, but it’s very quiet
the rest of the time. There are a couple of
smallish ‘resorts’ on the approach into the
village, and the village itself has a couple of
low-key guesthouses where you can stay in
tranquillity in a traditional-style hut with
clay-and-dung walls and thatched roof, and
venture out on interesting camel trips in the
relatively remote and empty surrounding
area.
Khuri is within the Desert ̈ National ̈
Park which stretches over 3162 sq km south-
west of Jaisalmer to protect part of the Thar
ecosystem, including wildlife such as the
desert fox, desert cat, chinkara gazelle, nil-
gai or bluebull (a large antelope), and some
unusual bird life including the endangered
great Indian bustard.
If you just want a quick camel ride on the
sand dunes, expect to pay around ₹100 per
person.4 ̈Sleeping ̈& ̈Eating
oBadal ̈House ̈ HOMESTAY $
(%8107339097; per person incl full board r or hut
₹300) Run by the charming Badal Singh, this
simple but spotlessly clean family home in
the centre of the village has basic but clean
mud-walled, thatch-roofed huts and equally
spotless rooms off two small yards. There’s
one shared bathroom, good home cooking
and a very warm welcome. Prices include
three meals a day. Mr Singh can also arrange
overnight camel trips (₹550 per person), al-
though he doesn’t pressure you into taking
them. From the bus drop-off, turn left up the
main village road then left again at the sign-
post (200m).ARRIVAL ̈IN ̈JAISALMER
Touts work the buses heading to Jaisalmer from Jodhpur, hoping to steer travellers
to guesthouses or hotels in Jaisalmer where they will get a commission. On arrival in
Jaisalmer, most buses are surrounded by a swarm of touts baying for your attention.
If an autorickshaw driver has a sign with the name of the accommodation you want,
by all means take the free ride offered (after checking that it is free). Otherwise, don’t
believe anyone who offers to take you ‘anywhere you like’ for just a few rupees, and do
take with a fistful of salt any claims that the hotel you want is ‘full’, ‘closed’ or ‘no good
any more’.
Also be very wary of offers of rooms for ₹100 or similar absurd rates. Places offering
such prices are almost certainly in the camel-safari hard-sell game and their objective
is to get you out of the room and on to a camel as fast as possible. If you don’t take up
their safari offers, the room price may suddenly increase or you might be told there isn’t
a room available any more.
Touts are less prevalent on the trains, but the same clamour for your custom ensues
outside the station once you have arrived.