Rajasthan
WESTERN
R AJASTHAN
Rajasthan
Sl EEP iNG
Rajasthan
Bi KANER
Kothari ̈ Haveli are even more attractive.
There are a couple of notable Jain temples,
the 15th-century Bhandasar ̈Temple being
the oldest and most important. Next door,
Bikaner’s most revered Hindu temple, Laxmi ̈
Nath, hums with activity during its morning
and evening aarti (prayers). Spice ̈ stalls
also dot the lanes; head for Bada ̈Bazar.
Look out too for the large wooden double-
bed-sized community tables dotted around
the streets. Originally placed around the
city so that bhang-smoking locals had some-
where to hang out, they are used mostly for
card games these days. If you come early in
the morning you may see women panning
for silver in the open sewers at the side of
the lanes, looking for discarded slivers of
silver that have been washed away from old-
city workshops. It all makes for a fascinating
wander, during which we guarantee you will
get lost at least once.
The old city is encircled by a 7km, 18th-
century wall, punctuated by five gates. The
main entrance from the city centre is the
triple-arched Kothe ̈Gate. There are great
old-city views from the top of Bhandasar
Temple, just inside the southern wall.
Gouri, a friendly and honest local man,
who runs the small old-city guesthouse
Shanti House, conducts informal, but highly
recommended guided ̈tours ̈of ̈the ̈old ̈city
(per person per hr ₹30).4 ̈Sleeping
Shanti ̈House ̈ GUESTHOUSE $
(%2543306; [email protected]; New Well, near
City Kotwali; dm ₹80, r ₹250-400, with AC ₹700;
aiW) This tiny old-city building with a
narrow staircase and four simple rooms
is a lovely budget option on account of its
welcoming hosts. Gouri, who doubles as an
unofficial old-city tour guide, and his wife
will soon make you feel part of their young
family by dishing out home-cooked meals,
plenty of chai and trustworthy travel tips.
Rooms are basic – squat toilets, bucket hot
water – but lovingly looked after with some
nice wall paintings and bedspreads. And the
bustle of old Bikaner is at your doorstep.
Gouri can also help you rent bicycles (per
day ₹20) or mopeds (per day ₹200) to getBIKANER ̈SAFARIS
Bikaner is an excellent alternative to Jaisalmer’s camel-safari scene and is increasingly
popular with travellers. There are fewer people running safaris here, so the hassle factor
is quite low. Camel trips tend to focus on desert villages and the interesting wildlife.
Three days and two nights is a common camel-safari duration, but half-day, one-day
and short overnight trips are all possible. If you’re after a serious camel trek, go for a
cross-country trip to Jaisalmer (two weeks) or Kichan (about six days), famous for its
concentration of large, graceful demoiselle cranes from September to March.
Typical prices are around ₹1200 to ₹1800 per person per day, including overnight
camping with tents, mattresses, blankets, meals, mineral water, one camel per person,
a camel cart to carry the gear (and sometimes tired riders), and a guide in addition to
the camel men. Many trips start at Raisar, about 8km east of Bikaner, or Deshnok, 30km
south, so start and end with a jeep trip to and from Bikaner.
The standout operator in terms of quality, reliability and transparency of what’s on of-
fer is Vijay Singh Rathore, aka Camel ̈Man (%2231244, 9829217331; http://www.camelman.com;
Jaipur Rd, Vijay Guest House; half-/full-/multi-day trips per person from ₹700/1000/1200 per
day, one day-one night per person ₹1600). Contact him through his website or at his lovely
family guesthouse, Vijay Guest House, 4km out of town. Also popular and long-estab-
lished is Vino ̈Desert ̈Safari (%2270445, 9414139245; http://www.vinodesertsafari.com; Vino
Paying Guest House; one day-one night per person ₹1800, multi-day treks per person ₹1500-
2000), run by Vinod Bhojak, who runs Vino Paying Guest House. There’s a touch of the
salesman about Vinod, but his tours are professional. You can also arrange higher-end
camel safaris through Bikaner’s more expensive hotels. Try Bhairon Vilas or Bhanwar Ni-
was. For something a little different, Vinayak ̈Desert ̈Safari (%2202634, 9414430948;
http://www.vinayakdesertsafari.com; Vinayak Guest House; half-day jeep safari per person ₹500, full- or
multi-day jeep safaris per person ₹900-2000) is run by wildlife expert Jitu Solanki. He takes
people on fascinating jeep safaris around the vast surrounding desert scrubland – al-
though camel rides can be arranged too – and focuses on desert mammals, reptiles and
birds. He also runs the quiet family guesthouse, Vinayak Guest House.