lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

106

SOUTHEASTERN MYANMAR

KAYIN STATEas a ‘sight’ at night when it’s lit up like a gau-
dy lollipop – it’s certainly memorable.
If you’re bound for Mawlamyine and
you’ve got the time, consider taking one of
two weekly ferries from Hpa-an. It’s worth
the trip if only because this dirt-cheap riv-
erboat passes through stunning scenery of
limestone mountains and sugarcane fi elds.
It’s not usually crowded and there are a few
sun chairs, perfect front-row seats for the
river show. Bring your own food and drinks.
For details on the trip, see p 107.

 4 Sleeping

Options are fairly limited in Hpa-an and,

unless you have your own transport, you’re

relegated to the cheaper places in town that

inspire little to write home about.

oSoe Brothers Guesthouse HOTEL $

(%21372; 2/146 Thitsar St; s/d $10/14, without

bathroom $5/10) This is an excellent back-

packers’ choice and though the basic rooms

here don’t have much space in which to

stretch, they are clean and cool and the com-

munal bathrooms are kept ship-shape. The

two ‘luxury’ rooms have a bit more space

and no queues for the toilet. There are lots of

welcoming communal areas to relax or chat.

Phoekhwarr, one of the eponymous Soe

Brothers, in addition to being a great guide,

has put together maps of the town and envi-

rons and is very tuned in to travellers’ needs.

Hotel Zwegabin HOTEL $$

(%22556; Hpa-an-Mawlamyine Rd; r $30-50; a)

Located about 4 miles outside Hpa-an along

the road to Mawlamyine, this hotel boasts a

park-like atmosphere in a stunning location

at the foot of limestone karsts and facing Mt

Zwegabin. The best rooms are the very spa-

cious duplex bungalows with balconies tak-

ing in the view, while the cheapies are in a

two-storey condo-like bloc. All in all, not bad

value but not a very convenient place to stay

if you don’t have your own wheels.

Parami Motel HOTEL $$

(%21647; cnr Ohn Taw St & Paya St; s/d $26/28;

a) Large and comfortable rooms that come

with satellite TV and hot-water bathrooms

make this an ideal midrange rest stop. The

friendly staff don’t speak much English and

aren’t as foreigner savvy as the Soe Brothers.

Nevertheless, in comparison to that hotel

the Parami is the last word in luxury.

Grand Hill Hotel HOTEL $$

(%22286; Sin Phyu Shin St; s/d $25/35; a) This

hotel takes the form of a suburban com-

pound with cosy pink and white bunga-

66

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