(Axel Boer) #1



(%60921; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; s $10-12, d $15-
18; a) A quick stroll from Restaurant Row,
this place off ers clean, compact rooms with
small decks overlooking the peaceful lawn.
The bigger, pricier rooms include a TV.

(%60815, 60812; Anawrahta Rd; s/d from $8/15; a)
Split in two by the busy road to the airport,
Eden isn’t exactly a garden party. The rooms
in the newer Eden Motel II have bigger, tiled
rooms and an over-touted bathtub, but we
prefer the ones in the original – particularly
the ones with all-bamboo walls and hardwood
fl oors. The friendly management told us they
‘have an idea’ to upgrade all the rooms.

Inn Wa Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%60902, 60849; Main Rd; s $8-10, d $13-15; a) If
you just need a cheap bed, this three-fl oor,
16-room choice near the market works, of-
fering minigolf-green carpets in boxy rooms
and simple attached bathrooms with hot
water. Rooms 206 and 306 have more win-
dow light (and less street noise). Breakfast
is served on the open roof deck. Advance
booking gets you a free transfer from your
point of arrival.

Winner Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%61069; Main Rd, Wetkyi-in; s $5-7, d $7-10; a) If
money’s tight, opt for this little family-run
guesthouse on the road to Old Bagan. The
cheapest rooms share the common bath-
room. Simple concrete-fl oor rooms with an
air-conditioning unit and tiled bathroom at-
tached are just as good as the cheapies in
town. Other pluses are that it’s nearer the
temples, and there are appealing roadside
restaurants around.

Golden Myanmar
Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%60901, 09-204 2064; http://www.goldenmyanmar
guesthouse.com; Main Rd; s $7-8, d $11-15; a)
More bare-bone than its neighbour Inn Wa,
with the cheaper rooms sharing a common
bathroom. Go with room 108: it’s got more
light and has direct access to the roof deck,
where breakfast is served.

Golden Village Inn GUESTHOUSE $
(%60921; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; s $8-10, d $12-
16; a) Behind New Heaven (and with the
same owners), the Village is another shady
spot near the restaurant strip, with comfort-
able bungalow-style rooms. Higher-priced
rooms have TV, desk and tub.

 5 Eating & Drinking
Nyaung U’s Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd (aka Res-
taurant Row) is a strip of atmospheric open-
air eateries geared towards foreign visitors.
It’s touristy, but easily the hub(bub) of Bagan
action. Many of the restaurants are copy-
cats, with similar ‘everything goes’ menus
(Chinese, Burmese, Thai, Indian, pizza and
‘Western’ options).

oAroma 2 INDIAN $$
(Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; dishes K2000-7000; h11am-
9pm or 10pm) ‘No good – no pay’ is the mantra
of this justifi ably confi dent operation serv-
ing delish vegie and meat curries on banana
leaves (or plates) with an endless stream of
hot chapattis and fi ve dollops of condiments
(including tamarind and mint sauces). If
you order one day in advance, it can also
whip up various biryani rice dishes.

oBlack Bamboo EUROPEAN $$
(%09-650 1444; off Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; dishes
K3500-6000; h9am-9.30pm) Run by a French
woman and her Burmese husband, this
garden-set café and restaurant is something
of an oasis: a lovely place to relax over a de-
cent steak and chips, a well-made espresso
or delicious homemade ice cream. Service is
friendly but leisurely.

Red Pepper Diner THAI, EUROPEAN $$
(%09-4926 0229; cnr Anawrahta Rd & Thirpyitsaya
3 St; meal K4000-12,000; h11am-3pm, 6-10pm)
Serving a broad range of Thai dishes, freshly
made with an authentic spicy kick, this yel-
low house takes a stab at sophistication with
silky pillows on concrete benches in a court-
yard facing the main road.

San Kabar Restaurant & Pub ITALIAN $$
(Main Rd; pizza K4000-6000, salads K1500-2700;
h7am-10pm) Famous as the birthplace of
Bagan pizza, the San Kabar’s streetside can-
dlelit courtyard is all about its thin-crusted
pies and well-prepared salads.

(Yarkinnthar Hotel Rd; noodles & dishes K1500-
3000; h7am-9pm or 10pm) Slightly less stylish
than some, but Pyi Wa is the operation on
Restaurant Row with a Bagan-era zedi (stu-
pa) as a neighbour – staff light up its base at
night. The best dishes are Chinese, but do
start off with the ‘potato cracken’ (fried po-
tato wedges that go particularly well with a
bottle of Myanmar Beer).
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