lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

(Axel Boer) #1
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YANGON–MANDALAY HIGHWAY

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR

TAU N G O O

queen), and a round building housing a re-
clining Buddha surrounded by devas (celes-
tial beings) and monastic disciples.
Nearby, on the western side of the stupa,
there’s a 12ft bronze, Mandalay-style sitting
Buddha, given to the paya in 1912 by a re-
tired civil servant who donated his body
weight in bronze and silver for the casting of
the image. He died three years after the cast-
ing at age 72; his ashes are interred behind
the image.
On the east side, there’s a shrine to Thu-
rathati – a goddess borrowed by Buddhists
from Hindus – atop a mythical hintha bird.
Fine-arts students come to pray to her be-
fore exams.


Myasigon Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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About 250m south of Shwesandaw, off Pa-
goda St, this lovely modern pagoda features
a gold zedi and many glass mosaics. On the
north side, an open building has a faded
mural of Taungoo kings. A nearby squat
white building is actually a museum (to
have it opened, ask in the pagoda; it usually
costs K1000). The museum has bronze im-
ages of Erawan (the three-headed elephant
who serves as Indra’s mount) and assorted
Buddha images, but is more interesting
for its random secular collection of British
colonial-era memorabilia, including an an-
cient Kodak camera, 80-year-old plates and
a cream soda bottle.


Kandawgyi Lake LAKE/PARK
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This pretty ornamental lake dates from the
days when Taungoo (then known as Katu-
madi) was capital and Bayin Naung ruled.
Strolling or cycling around its perimeter,
lined with shady trees, is a pleasant way to
pass an hour or so.
While nobody swims in the lake itself, on
its eastern (town) side, you’ll fi nd a small
swimming pool (for 2hr K500; h7am-6pm) at
the Evergreen Cafe, which also has friendly
owners.
On the lake’s western fl ank, sandwiched
between the old palace walls and moat, is
the Kyet Minn Nyi Naung Amusement
Park, built by the fi rm responsible for the
neighbouring Royal Katumadi Hotel. Apart
from various places to eat and drink here,
you can play snooker (K1000 per hour) and
tennis (K3000 per hour) or hire the kara-
oke room (K5000 per hour). There’s a free
kids’ playground, but we were told the pedal
boats on the lake were ‘not for foreigners’.

Kawmudaw Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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One of Taungoo’s oldest religious sites, this
countryside temple is around 1 mile west
of the lake through the new Sin Gate Arch.
In the temple’s southwest corner, look for
a small pillar in a sandbox (with barefoot
prints) – locals come here and walk around
it to conquer personal problems.

VISITING THE ELEPHANT CAMPS

Myanmar has the largest population of domesticated elephants in the world and is the
only country where they are still used on a large scale in industry – in particular for logging
carried out under the auspices of the state-owned Myanmar Timer Enterprise (MTE). In a
mountainous area of Karen villages and teakwood plantations, 35 miles northwest of Taun-
goo, it’s possible to visit logging camps and see up close working elephants and their oozies
(the Myanmar word for mahouts) continuing a pattern of life unchanged for centuries.
With at least three days’ notice (two weeks is better), trips of a day or longer can be
arranged to this otherwise restricted area through Dr Chan Aye ([email protected])
of the Myanmar Beauty Guest House.
Day trips, starting at 6am and returning to Taungoo around 5pm, cost $90 per person
for two people, with prices dropping the larger the group. Included in the rates are the
necessary permits, return transport, a walk into the forest, an elephant ride, a lunch of
rice and curry, and plenty of bottled water. Bamboo rafting and motorbiking in the jungle
can be added for additional fees.
Overnight trips with a stay in either Shwe Daung or Ngwe Daug, both Karen villages,
cost $220 per person; it’s also possible to do this trip and continue onward to Pyay the
next day for $300. The doctor provides free medical service to villagers in the area.
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