143YANGON – BAGAN HIGHWAYSIGHTSBAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMARSIGHTSBAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMARPYAY (PROME)crossroads of the Yangon, Mandalay and Taung-
gyi lines.
YANGON–BAGAN
HIGHWAY
This western route north of Yangon to Bagan
is less heavily traffi cked than the Yangon–
Mandalay Expressway. Sometimes called the
‘low road’, or ‘Pyay Hwy’, this route is debat-
ably more attractive than the old Yangon–
Mandalay Highway. It follows the eastern
bank of the Ayeyarwady River and rises over
lovely hills and valleys north of Magwe. At
Pyay, connections to Thandwe (and Ngapali)
head west over the mountains.
Pyay (Prome)
̈p–'
% 053
With a breezy location on the Ayeyarwady
River, Pyay is the most interesting stop on
the Yangon–Bagan Highway. The city’s glory
days date back to the ancient Pyu capital
of Thayekhittaya, the partially excavated
remains of which lie 5 miles east of Pyay’s
other stellar attraction: the dazzling Shwe-
sandaw Paya.
Myanmar folk alternate the town’s pro-
nunciation between ‘pyay’ and ‘pyi’. The
Brits, apparently, couldn’t deal with the con-
fusion and called it Prome.
The current town site became an impor-
tant trading centre during the Bagan era.
The Mon controlled it when King Alaungpa-
ya conquered it in 1754. Pyay boomed, along
with the British Irrawaddy Flotilla Company
in the 1890s. Today, it remains an important
transit point for goods between northern
and southern Myanmar. Soak up its lively
atmosphere along the riverfront and at the
roundabout, at the centre of which is a gild-
ed equestrian statue of Aung San.
1 Sights
Shwesandaw Paya & Around BUDDHIST TEMPLE
eráz®et;'.ur;"
Set on top of a hill in the town centre, the
stunning Shwesandaw Paya (and the sur-
rounding pagodas and monasteries) is not
only Pyay’s major point of interest, but also
one of the country’s biggest Buddhist pil-
grimage sites. Just over 1yd taller than the
main zedi at Yangon’s Shwedagon, the Shwe-
sandaw stupa follows the classic Bamar de-
sign seen at Bagan’s Shwezigon (p 164 ).
Legend goes that it was built in 589 BC,
and that the golden zedi houses four strands
of the Buddha’s hair (the Golden Hair Relics).
Atop the zedi are two hti (umbrella-like
pinnacles), unusual for Myanmar. The lower,
bigger one dates from Pyay’s days as a Mon
city. The higher, smaller one was added by
King Alaungpaya as a symbol of peace be-
tween his realm and the Mon, after brutally
capturing the city in 1754. In the southwest
corner of the complex, the Sacred Tooth
Hall is said to house an original tooth from
the Buddha. It’s in the golden bell (locked)
behind the glass. The locks come off once a
year for the November full-moon festivities.
The panoramic views from the pagoda
are pretty great too. To the east, you’ll see
the Sehtatgyi Paya (Big Ten Storey), a gi-
ant (maybe not 10 storeys, though) seated
Buddha, eye-to-eye with the Shwesandaw
and watching over it. The smaller gold stupa
on the highest hill southeast of Shwesandaw
is the Wunchataung Paya (Apology Moun-
tain Pagoda), where people can say ‘sorry’
for misdeeds. They get the best view of
Shwesandaw and the mountains across the
river while they’re at it. You can reach it via
Sehtatgyi Rd, east of the Shwesandaw.Central Market MARKET
Follow Strand Rd north of a morning to
catch all the action at the lively and colour-
ful central market which spreads over sev-
eral blocks. As you approach, you’ll pass an
ornate Chinese Temple dedicated to the
goddess Guan Yin on the corner of Ya Yoke
Tann St. A little further on are giant clay wa-
ter pots and a row of thanakha wood sellers.
Continue along the riverside north of the
market to fi nd the Shwepaliamaw Paya.Payagyi Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
.ur;"äkI"
Once marking one of Thayekhittaya’s four
corners, this towering pagoda is a half-mile
east of the bus station. It probably dates
from the 5th or 6th century AD. Three ter-
races encircle the slightly swollen, breastlike
structure from its base; ‘ladies’ are not al-
lowed on the upper one. The modern hti is
lit up at night. 4 Sleeping
All of the following options include break-
fast in the price.