148BAGAN & CENTRAL MYANMAR
YA N G O N–BAG A N HI G HWAY
Taung (Tax Mountain). The mountain is
named for the crafty toll-takers from the
mid-19th century, who spent the hours be-
tween taxing boats by carving reclining and
meditating buddhas into the steep cliff.
To get there, you’ll need to taxi across the
Ayeyarwady to Htonbo (q®u".iurâC), a village
about 90 minutes by road from Pyay, then
hire a boat (about K15,000) for the 45-minute
look. To do so, you must bring a copy of your
passport or visa to show the strict immigra-
tion offi cers in Htonbo.
For some visitors, it’s too much travel for
minimal payoff. A return taxi to Htonbo
from Pyay (sometimes with Shwedaung
thrown in) takes around two hours one-way
and costs about $20.Magwe
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About 155 miles north of Pyay and 93 miles
south of Salay, Magwe’s locale on the Ayeyar-
wady River is nice enough, as is the impres-
sive 1.8-mile Magwe Bridge. Beyond this,
however, it’s a place of dilapidated build-
ings running along a confusing web of leafy
streets and limited services, and not particu-
larly good accommodation. Still, if you’re
travelling along the bumpy road connect-
ing Bagan and Pyay, you’ll probably want
to break your journey here and the stretch
your legs around the ‘sights’.
Famously, the capital of Magwe Division
sat out of the 1988 prodemocracy marches. 1 Sights
Magwe’s chief pagoda, the 1929 Mya Tha
Lun Paya, a mile north of the bridge, fea-
tures a gilded stupa and occupies a hilltop
site with great river views.
Just across the river, about the same dis-
tance north of the bridge, is Minbu and the
fun Nga Ka Pwe Taung (Dragon Lake), a
burping pool of butane gas and mud that
has (over the years) built a few acres of
lunar-like terrain with bubbling pools atop
four odd mounds. The sludge isn’t hot; if
your toes slip in, wash them off below at a
small pagoda. The largest mound is named
Thu Sei Ta and the second largest Nanda, for
the mythical Dragon King’s daughter and
son, respectively. It’s about a 30-minute taxi
ride here from the centre. 4 Sleeping & Eating
Sein San Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $
(%23799; B-185 16th St, Ywathit Quarter; r $15, s/d
with shared bathroom $8/12; a) Very simple,
with stone fl oors, mint-green walls and thin
mattresses on the beds. But the staff are
friendly and speak English and the price is
appropriate. It’s on a quiet backstreet, mid-
way between the bus station and the river.Htein Htein Tar HOTEL $$
(%23499; 234 17th St, Ywathit Quarter; s/d $25/40;
a) Around the corner from the Sein San.
Laughably overpriced, this motel-like place
off ers big but tatty rooms.Rolex Guest House GUESTHOUSE $
(%23536; cnr Mya Than Lun Rd & Ayeyarwady
Bridge; s/d with air-con K10,000/18,000, with fan
K8000/12,000; a) This bare-bones guest-
house, on the roundabout facing the bridge
entry, has simple concrete-fl oored rooms
with cold-water bathrooms attached. It’s
easy to fi nd, but suff ers from traffi c noise.Central Restaurant CHINESE $$
(Pyitawthar Rd; dishes K2000-4000; h7am-10pm)
Handy for the bus station, this reasonably
clean-looking Chinese restaurant serves the
usual noodle and rice dishes, including hot
and sour chicken. It’s next to the Zin Yaw
Guesthouse, which doesn’t accept foreigners.Monalizar 2 CHINESE, BAMAR $$
(dishes from K1500; h7am-10pm) On the river,
just south of the bridge, this is a very popular
drinking spot that also serves passable food.
As the sun dips across the river, locals (most-
ly guys) hit the beer and whisky as a crew of
11 start up the 7pm music and dance show.8 Getting There & Around
Magwe’s highway bus station is about 1.5 miles
east of the central market. Yangon-bound buses
also stop in Pyay, but you’ll still need to pay the
full fare to Yangon even if you get off there. Buses
from Magwe go to the following destinations:
Nyaung U (K6000, four hours, departure 6am or
7am), Pyay (K4000, seven hours, departure 9am),
Yangon (K7500, 12 hours, departure 5.30pm) and
Mandalay (K5500, 10 hours, departure 6.30pm).
IWT ferries between Pyay and Mandalay stop
in Magwe. The IWT offi ce (%21503) is one block
towards the river from the market’s north side.
Motorised trishaws – with room for you and a
few mates – tout their services at the bus sta-
tion. A ride from the station to Nga Ka Pwe Taung
and a stop at Monalizar 2 costs about K8000.