lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

154

TEMPLES OF BAGAN

THE TEMPLES

additional sights, accommodation, eating

and transport options, see p 113. The temples

are all shown on the map on p 152.

Old Bagan

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The most practical part of Bagan to tour

by foot (with water and a hat), this roughly

counterclockwise 1-mile circuit takes in tem-

ples within the old city walls.

Gawdawpalin Pahto BUDDHIST TEMPLE

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Standing 197ft tall, Gawdawpalin is one

of the largest and most imposing Bagan

temples – though not necessarily the most

inspiring, with its modernised altar and

tile fl oors inside. Built during the reign of

Narapatisithu and fi nished under that of

Nantaungmya, it’s considered the crown-

ing achievement of the late Bagan period.

Its name means ‘Platform to which Hom-

age is Paid’. The most recent homage was its

heavy-duty reconstruction following terrifi c

damage sustained in the 1975 earthquake

(it stands near the quake’s epicentre). The

stairs to the top terrace are closed to visitors.

Mimalaung Kyaung MONASTERY

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A nice set of chinthe (half-lion/half-dragon

deity) guards the stairway leading up this

BAGAN IN ...

Many visitors set aside just two days in Bagan even though you can easily spend four

or fi ve days here and still leave much unexplored. Adapt the following itineraries to suit

your plans or consider just renting a bike and heading off to view thousands of other

random sights – the real pleasure of Bagan comes from a leisurely soaking up of its

scale and time-slip atmosphere.

One Day

Stick to the Old Bagan area starting at the Tharabar Gate then heading south to

Bagan’s most popular temple, Ananda Pahto and west to Thatbyinnyu Pahto, near

where you can climb up the old city wall.

Just west is where King Anawrahta stored all the non-Buddhist images at Nathlaung

Kyaung. Back on the main road, backtrack towards Tharabar Gate and detour on the

gravel road for a river view from Bupaya.

In the afternoon visit lacquerware shops in Myinkaba, climb up the hidden stairs in

modern Manuha Paya and see the bas-relief fi gures in Nan Paya. Finish up at one of the

choice sunset spots: Pyathada Paya is the adventurous option, east of Myinkaba on

goat-herd trails, or play it safe with the easily accessible (hence crowded) Shwesandaw

Paya, near Old Bagan.

Two Days

Having followed the one-day plan, now tick off other highlights starting with Dhamma-

yangyi Pahto, Bagan’s largest temple. Take the paths east to the gorgeous Sulamani

Pahto and escape the crowds at its neighbouring ‘mini-me’ version, Thabeik Hmauk,

which is also a good (and generally uncrowded) place to for sunset viewing.

Another lovely view can be had from the terrace of Dhammayazika Paya in the

South Plain area east of Myinkaba. While out this way visit Leimyethna Pahto for its

well-preserved frescoes and Pyathonzu, which also houses 13th-century murals.

Four Days

On day three many itineraries will have you heading out of the immediate Bagan area

to Salay, another area sprinkled with old temples and monasteries, and/or Mt Popa,

famous for its picturesque, nat- (spirit-) infested hilltop temple. Both places are interest-

ing, but if you’d rather stay closer to Bagan, schedule visits to Abeyadana Pahto and

Nagayon in Myinkaba and the frescoes in Lawkahteikpan Pahto. Adventurous half-day

boat trips can be made down or across the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) to more remote

temples – the bonus being a chance to sail back into town at sunset.