156TEMPLES OF BAGAN
THE TEMPLES
Inside you’ll fi nd fi ne stucco carvings, a
teak buddha and stone slabs that retell (in
Pali) its history, including that it took just
seven months to build. Missing from the
scripts are details of its builder’s demise –
Alaungsithu’s son brought his sick father
here in 1163 to smother him to death.Pitaka Taik BUDDHIST LIBRARY
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Following the sacking of Thaton, King
Anawrahta is said to have carted off some
30 elephant-loads of Buddhist scriptures in
1058 and built this library ( just northeast of
Shwegugyi) to house them. The square de-
sign follows the basic early Bagan gu (cave
temple) plan, perfect for the preservation
of light-sensitive palm-leaf scriptures. It’s
notable for the perforated stone windows,
each carved from single stone slabs, and the
plaster carvings on the roof, which imitate
Myanmar woodcarvings.Tharabar Gate ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITE
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Do stop on the east side of this former en-
trance of the original palace site. On either
side of the arched gateway are two niches,
home not to buddha images but to nat
who guard the gate and who are treated
with profound respect by locals. To the left
is Lady Golden Face, and to the right her
brother Lord Handsome.
Like most nat, Tharabar Gate’s twosome
had a tragic history. A king married Lady
Golden Face to lure her brother Lord Hand-
some, whom he feared, out of hiding. When
the king had Handsome burned at the stake,
his sister jumped in too; only her face was
saved from the fi re.
Superstitious locals don’t venture
through the gate by motorbike, car or horse
cart without fi rst paying a one-time off ering
to the nat (usually a bunch of bananas and
a couple of coconuts) to ensure protection
against traffi c accidents. Don’t worry: bicy-
cles are OK, blessing-free.
The gate is the best-preserved remains of
the 9th-century wall, and the only gate still
standing. Traces of old stucco can still be
seen on the gateway.
A number of restaurants are past the for-
mer moat, about 220yd east.Mahabodhi Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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Unlike any other Bagan temple, this monu-
ment, located on the north side of the mainroad 380yd west of the gate, is modelled af-
ter the famous Mahabodhi temple in Bodh-
gaya, India, which commemorates the spot
where the Buddha attained enlightenment.
Built during the reign of Nantaungmya in
1215, the temple’s unusual pyramidal spire is
richly coated in niches enclosing seated bud-
dha fi gures, rising from a square block. The
stairway to the top is closed.
Inside is a modern makeover – with tile
fl oor and carpet. The ruined buildings just
north feature some original glazed painting
fragments.Bupaya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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On the bank of the Ayeyarwady (reached
from the Nyaung U road, about 220yd north-
west of the Mahabodhi Paya), this cylindrical
Pyu-style stupa, named for bu (gourd), is said
to date back to the 3rd century, further than
any Bagan temple. Most likely it was erect-
ed around the same time as the city walls
(around 850). What’s seen now – a gold stupa
above a row of crenulated terraces leading
down to the water – is a reconstruction; the
1975 earthquake demolished the original.
Off the road to the southeast is the
Pebinkyaung Paya, a 12th-century pagoda
built in a unique Sinhalese style.North Plain
The bulk of Bagan temples are scattered
across the vast northern plain between Ny-
aung U, Old Bagan and New Bagan. This
broad area runs between the Old Bagan
walls and Nyaung U, and (mostly) between
the two roads that connect the two. Sights
are ordered (more or less) west to east.Ananda Pahto BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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With its shimmering gold, 170ft-high, corn-
cob hti shimmering across the plains, Anan-
da is one of the fi nest, largest, best preserved
and most revered of all Bagan souvenir
stands, ur, we mean temples. Hawkers sell-
ing books, postcards and oil paintings surely
know you’ll be making it to this lovely ter-
raced temple, but that shouldn’t dissuade
you from going.
It’s roughly 490yd east of Thatbyinnyu,
550yd north of Shwesandaw and 1090yd
northwest of Dhammayangyi Pahto. Most vis-
itors access it from the northern side – where
the highest concentration of hawkers are. For
a quieter approach, enter from the east side.