158TEMPLES OF BAGAN
THE TEMPLES
off ering dhamma (Buddhist teachings) as a
cure for suff ering. Both arms hang at the im-
age’s sides with hands outstretched, a mudra
(hand position) unknown to traditional Bud-
dhist sculpture outside this temple.
The west-facing buddha features the ab-
haya mudra (the hands outstretched, in the
gesture of no fear). At its feet sit two life-
sized lacquer statues, said to represent King
Kyanzittha and Shin Arahan, the Mon monk
who initiated Anawrahta into Theravada
Buddhism. Inside the western portico are
two symbols on pedestals of the Buddha’s
footprints.
Don’t leave without taking a brief walk
around the outside of the temple, where you
can see many glazed tiles and lovely views
of the spires and terraced roofs (often away
from vendor hassle too).Ananda Ok Kyaung BUDDHIST CHAPEL
a;nNÌ;aut'ekY;='"
Just west of Ananda’s northern entry, this
small vihara (sanctuary or chapel) features
some detailed 18th-century murals bursting
with bright red and green, showing details
of everyday life from the Bagan period. In
the southeast corner, you can see Portu-
guese fi gures engaged in trade. Built in 1137,
the temple’s name means ‘Ananda Brick
Monastery’.Upali Thein ORDINATION HALL
wp:lisim'
Just north of the Bagan-Nyaung U Rd, al-
most midway to Nyaung U, this squat mid-
13th-century ordination hall houses some
brightly painted frescoes depicting big
scenes on the walls and ceilings from the
late 17th or early 18th century. Sadly many
pieces crumbled in the 1975 earthquake. The
building, named for a well-known monk
from the 13th century, is often locked to pro-
tect the art, but you can see in (a bit) fromthe three gated doorways if the ‘keyholder’
isn’t around. The roof battlements imitate
Myanmar wooden architecture, and a small
centre spire rises from the rooftop.Htilominlo Pahto BUDDHIST TEMPLE
qI"lium='"liupuqiu"
Across the road from Upali Thein, this
150ft-high temple (built in 1218) marks the
spot where King Nantaungmya was chosen
(by a leaning umbrella – that timeless de-
cider), among fi ve brothers, to be the crown
prince. It’s more impressive from the out-
side, with its terraced design, which is simi-
lar to Sulamani Pahto. Have a walk around
the 140-sq-ft base to take in the fragments
of the original fi ne plaster carvings, glazed
sandstone decorations and nicely carved re-
liefs on the doorways. Inside are four bud-
dhas on the lower and upper fl oors, though
the stairways are closed. Traces of old mu-
rals are also still visible. Unfortunately it’s
Vendor Central.Buledi BUDDHIST TEMPLE
bU"ly'sI"
Great for its views, this steep-stepped,
pyramid-style stupa looks ho-hum from
afar, but the narrow terrace has become
something of an alternative sunset spot. It’s
about 660yd south of the Htilominlo, across
Anawrahta Rd. It’s also known as ‘Temple
394’ (not correctly labelled on some maps).
If persistent vendors are getting to you,
try the miniature version, Temple 405, with
several glazed tiles visible, just east of Buledi.Gubyauknge BUDDHIST TEMPLE
gUe ̈p;k'=y'
Off Anawrahta Rd, almost a mile east of Hti-
lominlo, this early-Bagan-period temple has
some excellent stucco carvings on the out-
side walls (particularly on the north side)
and some original paintings visible inside.TEMPLE FESTIVALSThe following are Bagan’s major temple festivals or paya pwe, listed in order of their
celebration through the year. At them all expect religious chanting around the clock,
religious paraphernalia stalls and music and drama performances.
» Manuha Paya Held on the full moon of Tabaung (February/March).
» Gawdawpalin Pahto Celebrated on the full moon of Thadingyut (September/October).
» Shwezigon Paya Celebrated on the full moon of Tazaungmon (October/November).
» Ananda Pahto This roughly two-week event culminating on the full moon of Pyatho
(December/January) is Bagan’s biggest festival, when hundreds of monks come to col-
lect alms from thousands of merit-seeking locals.