159THE TEMPLES
TEMPLES OF BAGAN
TEMPLES OF BAGANCENTRAL PLAINWetkyi-In-Gubyaukgyi BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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Just west of Nyaung U and about 100yd east
of Gubyauknge, this detailed off -the-main-
circuit, 13th-century temple has an Indian-
style spire, like the Mahabodhi Paya in Old
Bagan. It's interesting for fi ne frescoes of
scenes from the Jataka but, unfortunately,
in 1899 a German collector surreptitiously
removed many of the panels on which the
frescoes were painted. Those that remain
in the entry are in great shape. Steps inside
lead to four buddha images and you can see
Hindu fi gures engraved on the spire.
Central Plain
Extending from the edge of Old Bagan,
this vast and lovely plain (roughly south of
Anawrahta Rd between New Bagan and Ny-
aung U) is home to a few must-sees everyone
gets to (Shwesandaw Paya and Dhamma-
yangyi Pahto) and many pockets of temples
that few ever see. It’s great turf to follow your
own whims, as you’ll fi nd goatherds and a bit
of village life out here, but there is nothing
in the way of restaurants or lunch options.
Some temples are locked but a ‘keyholder’
should be in the area.
This list of well-worthy sites runs west to
east (towards the clearly visible Bagan Tow-
er construction site, near Nyaung U).
Shwesandaw Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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Bagan’s most famous sunset-viewing spot,
the Shwesandaw is a graceful white pyramid-
style pagoda with steps leading past fi ve ter-
races to the circular stupa top, with good
360-degree views. It’s located roughly mid-
way between Thatbyinnyu and Dhamma-
yangyi. Its top terrace is roomy – just as well,
considering the numbers of camera-toting
travellers coming by taxi or bus before sunset.
If you go during the day, you’ll likely be alone.
Shwesandaw means ‘golden holy hair’:
legend has it that the stupa enshrines a Bud-
dha hair relic presented to King Anawrahta
by the King of Ussa Bago (Pegu) in thanks
for his assistance in repelling an invasion by
the Khmers. The terraces once bore terracot-
ta plaques showing scenes from the Jataka
but traces of these, and of other sculptures,
were covered by rather heavy-handed reno-
vations. The now-gilded zedi (stupa) bell
rises from two octagonal bases, which top
the fi ve square terraces. This was the fi rst
Bagan monument to feature stairways lead-
ing from the square terraces to the round
base of the stupa.
The hti, which was toppled by the 1975
earthquake, can still be seen lying on the
south side of the paya compound. A new one
was fi tted soon after the quake.
About 165yd north stands Lawkahteik-
pan Pahto – a small but interesting middle-
period gu containing excellent frescoes and
inscriptions in both Burmese and Mon.Dhammayangyi Pahto BUDDHIST TEMPLE
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Visible from all parts of Bagan, this massive,
walled, 12th-century temple (about 550yd
east of Shwesandaw) is infamous for itsKEYHOLDERS & SOUVENIR HAWKERSMajor temples that remain active places of worship such as Ananda Pahto and Shwezi-
gon Paya are always open during the day. At many others to get inside you fi rst have to
fi nd the ‘keyholder’ whose job it is to act as the caretaker of the site. Often they (or their
kids) will fi nd you fi rst and open the gate for you. A bit of ‘tea money’ (say K500) is appre-
ciated. We’re told that the keyholders are assigned by the archaeology department.
The other constant of Bagan temples – even relatively remote ones – are souvenir hawk-
ers, often selling (and sometimes creating) colourful sand paintings. Some of these repli-
cate parts of the murals from inside the temples and are quite skilful with prices starting at
as little as K500 for the smaller canvases, but rising sharply for more detailed and larger
works; other images are pretty generic and found across all temple sites. Although some
hawkers can be persistent, if you’re not interested in buying, most will leave you alone.
We’re told that offi cial souvenir hawkers at the temples pay K45,000 a year for a licence,
but it’s likely that there are many more unoffi cial vendors given the potential for relatively
easy money. ‘Even if they only sell a few trinkets a week, it’s an easy job,’ said one frequent
visitor to Bagan, ‘as the alternative is a farm job which pays far less a day.’ A guide also
bemoaned that children in Bagan are starting to quit school in order to work as hawkers.