lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

162

TEMPLES OF BAGAN

THE TEMPLES

buddha or (some locals believe) a Hindu

god. Ask at Manuha if the temple is locked.

Abeyadana Pahto BUDDHIST TEMPLE

ap:y'rtn;puqiu"

About 440yd south of Manuha Paya, this

11th-century temple with a Sinhalese-style

stupa was supposedly built by Kyanzittha’s

Bengali wife Abeyadana, who waited for

him here as he hid for his life from his pre-

decessor King Sawlu. It’s famed for its origi-

nal frescoes, which were cleaned in 1987 by

Unesco staff. With a torch, you can make out

many fi gures that Abeyadana, believed to be

a Mahayanist, would likely have asked for:

Bodhisattvas such as Avalokitesvara, and

Hindu deities Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva and

Indra. The inner shrine contains a large,

brick, seated buddha (partly restored); sur-

rounding walls are lined with niches, most

now empty. Inside the front wall are many

Jataka scenes.

Ask at the caretaker’s house to the south

if the temple is locked.

Some visitors enjoy the sunset at the

often-overlooked Kyasin across the road.

Nagayon BUDDHIST TEMPLE

ng:"r®u

Slightly south of Abeyadana and across the

road, this elegant and well-preserved temple

was built by Kyanzittha. The main buddha

image is twice life size and shelters under the

hood of a huge naga (dragon serpent). This

refl ects the legend that in 1192 Kyanzittha

built the temple on the spot where he was

sheltered while fl eeing from his angry broth-

er and predecessor Sawlu – an activity he

had to indulge in on more than one occasion.

Paintings also decorate the corridor walls.

The central shrine has two smaller standing

buddhas as well as the large one. The temple

itself – with corncob sikhara, which some

believe to be the Ananda prototype – can be

climbed via tight stairs.

Somingyi Kyaung BUDDHIST TEMPLE

ciu"m='"äkI"ekY;='"

Named after the woman who supposedly

sponsored its construction, this typical late-

Bagan brick monastery (about 220yd south-

west of Nagayon) is thought to have been

built in 1204. A zedi to the north and gu to

the south are also ascribed to Somingyi. Many

U THEIN LWIN DIRECTOR, DEPARTMENT OF ARCHAEOLOGY, BAGAN

My recommendations for Bagan’s most signifi cant temples to see are as follows, in

chronological order:

Ananda Pahto (p 156 )

Not only is it an outstanding example of Bagan temple architecture, Ananda is rich in

decorative detail, including the four standing wooden images of Buddha, the life of Bud-

dha depicted in niche carvings and the Jataka series tiles.

Nagayon (p 162 )

This is the last restoration project that Unesco was involved in and was built in the same

period as Ananda. Look for the 28 images of Buddha under the main sculpture.

Abeyadana Pahto (p 162 )

This is my personal favourite – inside you can see 550 Jakata mural paintings and vari-

ous Hindu deities paying homage to Buddha.

Gubyaukgyi (p 161 )

Famous for its frescoes, this is one of the last temples built in the 11th century – apart

from life-of-Buddha illustrations, you can see scenes from four Buddhist synods held in

ancient times.

Lawkahteikpan Pahto (p 159 )

Also very important for its frescoes, including eight great miracles of Buddha’s life. You

can read the Jakata scenes as a complete story. You start to see a distinct Myanmar style

emerge here from the Mon infl uence.