172EASTERN MYANMAR
THAZI TO INLE LAKE
terrain challenging and few people in the
hills speak English. The going rate for a
guided walk ranges from $5 to $7 per day,
in groups of three or more. Rates increase if
you’re hiking alone or if you’re overnighting.
For day treks, JP Barua (%50549) gets good
reviews, or you could try any of the Kalaw-
based guides who also do the Kalaw to Inle
Lake trek (p 172 ). 4 Sleeping
Kalaw has a generous spread of hotels and
guesthouses, many set up specifi cally for
budget travellers. None of the hotels off er
air-conditioning – in this climate they don’t
need to – and most places off er discounts in
the low season (May to October).oPine Hill Resort HOTEL $$
(%50079; http://www.kalawpinehillresort.com; 151 Oo Min
Rd; r $50-60) Set around an original colonial
bungalow, this sophisticated modern hotel
has rooms in wooden cottages sprawling
through immaculate gardens. It’s undoubt-
edly the most atmospheric place to stay in
Kalaw, the only downside being that it’s a
good ten-minute walk from the city centre.
To get here, follow Min St south, turning
right at the second intersection, or hop on
a motorcycle taxi (K500) near the market.Dream Villa Hotel Kalaw HOTEL $$
(%50144; 5 Zatila St; [email protected].
mm; r $20-36) A cut above your average
Myanmar hotel, the Dream Villa attracts
tour groups and has tasteful, wood-panelledTREKKING FROM KALAW TO INLE LAKEInstead of enduring another never-ending bus ride, consider walking the distance be-
tween Kalaw and Inle Lake. There are numerous alternative routes to take you to the lake
shore and, depending on the route that you and your guide agree upon, the journey can
take between two and four days.
Although scenic, it’s important to understand that this trek is more of a cultural (or
even agricultural) experience than a nature walk. The only real forest you’ll encounter is
just outside Kalaw and the bulk of the trek passes through relatively modern Pa-O and
Danu settlements and extensive wheat, rice, tea, potato, sesame and chilli plantations.
At some points you’ll be walking on footpaths, while other parts of the trek are on roads
(both paved and unpaved) or even along train tracks. You’ll most likely spend one night
with a Pa-O or Danu family and another at a Buddhist temple.
If you’re doing the standard three-day option, expect to walk at least four hours a day.
From Kalaw, the initial part of the trek passes through tall mountains fringed with tea plan-
tations. The second day passes through hilly agricultural areas and the last day is a mix
of the two. It’s mostly level walking, the only truly steep part being the descent/ascent to/
from Thandaung at Inle Lake. There are numerous alternate long and short routes; some
choose to go by car to Lamaing and walk to Inle Lake in two days, while other guides have
found ways to extend the trip to four nights. Possible termination points at Inle Lake in-
clude Inthein, Tone Le, Thandaung or Kaung Daing. Discuss the options with your guide.
The winter months are the best time to do the trek, the only downside being that you’ll
almost certainly run into other trekkers – nights with as many as 50 people sleeping at
the monastery have been reported. During the rainy season many of the roads are irritat-
ingly muddy and slippery. Leeches and mosquitoes can also be a problem.
Guides can arrange to have your bags transported to a hotel in Nyaungshwe, so you
carry only what you need for the walk – a towel and a torch (fl ashlight) are good extras to
bring along.
If arranging your trek from Kalaw, expect to pay between $8 and $12 per person, per
day, in groups of three or more; if going at it alone, the trek will be at least $60 for the three
days. Keep in mind that cheaper day rates often don’t include the cost of shipping your
gear to your destination (at least K2000) and the boat fee at Inle Lake (about K13,000).
Guides with extensive experience on this particular route include Nyaungshwe-based
Pyone Cho at Lotus Restaurant (p 182 ) and the brothers Than Htay and Ko Htwe at Sunny
Day Tour Services (p 187 ), and in Kalaw, Naing Naing at Ever Smile (%50683; Yuzana St),
Harri and Rambo at Golden Lily Guest House, and Sam’s Trekking Guide (%50377;
Union Hwy).