229AROUND MANDALAYSLEEPING & EATINGMANDALAY & AROUNDSLEEPING & EATINGAROUND MANDALAYSAGAINGwill probably be charged $3 for a Mingun–
Sagaing ticket, and on the way back to the
market, your taxi driver will probably stop
off at one of the silver shops where repous-
sage artisans bang away at various pieces.
Alternatively there are several pedestrian
access stairways, including one from the
Mingun road, where nobody is likely to
check tickets.
Soon U Ponya Shin Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
This ‘early off ering shrine’ is the most im-
portant of the temples on Sagaing Hill’s
southern crown and the fi rst you’ll come
to on climbing the southern stairway. Its
central 97ft-high gilded stupa was origi-
nally built in 1312. Legends claim that the
structure magically appeared overnight,
built by the king’s faithful minister Ponya
in a superhuman fl urry of activity inspired
by a magical Buddha relic that he’d found in
a betel-nut box. The myth fancifully claims
that Ponya himself was of supernatural par-
entage, his father having ‘fl own’ to Sagaing
from the Himalayas millennia before, arriv-
ing to a curious communion with the Bud-
dha, seven hermits and a fl ower-bearing
orang-utan. Burmese genealogy is never
boring.
Notice the bronze rabbit that serves as a
collection box in the rather gaudy Buddha
hall. And don’t miss the views from the bal-
cony area of the small associated snack bar.
Umin Thounzeh BUDDHIST TERRACE
North of Soon U Ponya Shin, Umin Thoun-
zeh (literally 30 Caves) is one of the more
distinctive complexes on the main hilltop, a
colourful crescent-shaped colonnade within
which there are 45 Buddha images.
Tilawkaguru CAVE TEMPLE
Accessed from a dead-end road at the south-
west base of the hill, this mural-fi lled cave
complex dates originally from 1672. Until
recently it was a popular site for visitors
and was especially appealing when lit only
by candles. However, at the time of research,
opening times had become sporadic.
TOWN CENTRE
The market area isn’t especially charm-
ing, but further south it’s pleasant to cy-
cle along Strand Rd with several fi ne old
colonial-era buildings lining its north
side and views across to Inwa from the Ay-
eyarwady riverfront. A block inland from
here, Htuparyon Paya is a gigantic stupa
originally built in 1444. It’s unusual for hav-
ing three circular storeys each incorporat-
ing arched niches. Across Yonegyi St, a gar-
den of garish statues includes a particularly
fearsome red cobra.
North of the market area Thacheiselik
has a large golden stupa and Shwezigon
is a huge bell-shaped brick stupa, currently
undergoing a massive renovation.NORTHWEST OF CENTRE
Five miles northwest of central Sagaing,
Kaunghmudaw Paya is a vast gilded pud-
ding of a stupa rising 150ft high. It was built
in 1636 to commemorate Inwa’s establish-
ment as the royal capital. According to local
tradition, the king agonised interminably
over how to shape the stupa. His queen,
tired of hubby’s indecisiveness, ripped open
her blouse and, pointing to her breast, said:
‘Make it like this!’ Less romantic scholars
claim it was actually modelled after the
vast Suvarnamali Mahaceti (Ruwanweli-
saya) stupa in Anuradhapura, Sri Lanka.
Kaunghmudaw is distantly visible from
Sagaing Hill and easy to spot as you drive
past en route to Monywa. 4 Sleeping & Eating
To make a more in-depth exploration of
Sagaing’s leafy pagoda paths some travel-
lers opt to stay in the town’s one foreigner-
licensed hotel. However, while central, it’s
a long walk from the main stupa area and
management doesn’t rent bicycles or mo-
torbikes, so you’d be wise to bring your own
from Mandalay.Happy Hotel HOTEL $$
(%21420; standard s/d $15/25, superior $20/30,
deluxe $30/40; a) On a small town-centre
backstreet tucked behind the market. The
best deal in this two-part complex are the
mid-priced ‘superior’ rooms with comfy mat-
tresses, fridge and modest bathrooms. Stan-
dard rooms are contrastingly old-fashioned
with lumpy beds. The sizeable Chinese
restaurant (veg/non-veg mains K2500/5000)
is partly a gift shop, and there’s a cheaper
Burmese eatery next door.8 Getting There & Away
Sagaing is about 12 miles southwest of
Mandalay. Authorities may check/sell the
Sagaing-Mingun $3 ticket at the old Ava Bridge,
but there’s no such check if you use the new
Sagaing Bridge, used by most Sagaing-
Mandalay pick-up trucks.