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NORTHERN MYANMAR
MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADY
AYEYARWADY RIVER TRIP PLANNINGWhich Boat?
IWT FERRIES
These two-/three-storey craft are the cheapest option and the best for interacting with
locals but they’re slow, unreliable and government-owned.
» Routes They run three times a week between Bhamo and Mandalay with stops in
Shwegu, Katha, Ti Kyaing, Tagaung and Kyaukmyaung. They do not proceed further
north than Bhamo. Timetables are guesswork and ferries can be a day or more late so
don’t be in a hurry.
» Tickets Ticket purchasing procedures vary by port but foreigners always need to
pay with pristine US dollar bills, sometimes at the relevant IWT office. Agency bookings
aren’t possible and there are no seat reservations, indeed no seats whatever, just cold
metal decks.
» Comfort You’ll generally need to sleep aboard at least one night, maybe three nights
northbound from Mandalay to Bhamo. A few simple cabins are available ($54, shared
toilet) but most folk travel deck class (maximum fare $9) for which you’ll need your own
mat and bedding.
» Provisions Snacks and drinks are sold aboard but they are comparatively pricey.
Cheaper provisions are available once or twice a day when the ferry docks at intermedi-
ate ports: sales-folk swarming aboard peddling fish on a stick, noodles and curries while
other vendors await on the shore.FAST BOATS
Long covered motor boats carrying between 30 and 80 passengers. Departures are pre-
dictable and regular, either daily or at least every second day.
» Routes Fast boats make one-day hops on the following sectors, always travelling by
day (each sector will be in a different boat): Myitkyina–Sinbo (daily), Sinbo–Bhamo
(daily), Bhamo–Shwegu–Katha (daily) and Katha–Mandalay (every second day).
» Tickets Usually purchased just before departure, or one day before for Katha–Mandalay.
» Comfort The wooden bench seats are small and often partly broken. Sitting on the flat
roof can be more comfy if you have sufficient sunscreen but that’s not always an option.
You’ll need to sleep at local hotels and guesthouses, which are very basic in Sinbo and
Katha.
» Provisions Bring plenty of drinking water. North of Bhamo there may be a lunch stop
but this can be cancelled if they are behind schedule and there are no vendors en route,
so bring your own snacks. South of Bhamo, villagers aggressively peddle cheap meal-
bags during brief intermediate halts.LOCAL BOATS
Similar to fast boats but making shorter, local journeys and often dangerously overloaded.
Foreigners are typically forbidden to use these.CRUISE BOATS
Several cruise companies off er Ayeyarwady trips, albeit rarely more than a few times per
year. On such journeys your interaction with locals will be minimal. See the boxed text on
p 214 for full details.Which Direction?
Southbound: The rare handful of travellers who venture this way generally head south.
That’s a sensible decision as you’ll be going with the current and each leg is quicker, though
if you’re sticking with fast boats, the total number of days you’ll need remains the same.
Northbound: Each leg takes more of your day and IWT ferries will take up to two days longer
northbound. You will almost certainly not meet any other foreigners on northbound boats.When to Go?
Boats run all year between Mandalay and Bhamo.