240
NORTHERN MYANMAR
MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADY
ordering at) this attractive riverside place,
hidden at the end of an improbable subur-
ban alley north of the Manao Park (around
2 miles north of the centre). There’s also a
more central branch but it’s without any of
the charm.
River View CHINESE $
(Riverside; dim sum K500-700; h6am-10pm)
Forgo your half-hearted hotel breakfast
and stroll over to watch the sun rise from
this open riverside terrace whose dim sum
are the best in town. Numerous alternative
snacks are available and there’s a karaoke
section at night. It’s directly south of the
main vegetable market.
Win Thu Zar BEER STATION $
(Zyo Gyi St; draught beer K500; h10am-10pm)
Facing the main market this attractive beer
garden turns out typical barbecue off erings.
Royal Kiss BAKERY, CAFE $
(Swon Para Bwan St; snacks K500, coff ee K600-
1000; h9am-8pm) This conspicuous bright-
orange bakery bakes fl uff y pastries and
serves fresh fruit juices and real coff ee (mac-
chiatos K700). It’s near Myanma Airways.
Bamboo Field Restaurant CHINESE $$
(313 Pyi Htaung Su Rd; dishes K5000-9000, burg-
ers K2000; h9am-10pm) On the main airport
road, four blocks northwest of the YMCA,
the ‘attraction’ of this overpriced barn-like
‘restobar’ is the nightly beauty-pageant-cum-
karaoke show by local girls (from 6.30pm).
Night Market STREET FOOD $
(Aung San Rd & Wai Maw St; h4.30-9.30pm)
Stalls with various typical meals plus some
Kachin and Shan specialities.
8 Information
The YMCA sells a K500 map of greater My-
itkyina and has a better street map on their
wall (albeit mostly in Burmese) that you can
photograph.
MCC (Yan Aung Mien St; internet per hr K500)
Fast connection, though several other internet
places are more central.
8 Getting There & Away
Air
On arrival by air in Myitkyina you’ll be half-heart-
edly quizzed by immigration police in the ter-
minal building. Then you walk out of the airport
compound before collecting your luggage. Don’t
panic – bags are delivered to a shed just outside
the airport gates.
Air Bagan (AB; %20308; Swon Para Bwan St;
h9am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-noon Sat & Sun)
Book early.
Myanma Airways (MA; %22545; hbookings
8am-9.30am one day before flight) Tucked just
off Swon Para Bwan St, a half-block south of
Air Bagan, 200yd north of Myitkyina’s ‘sec-
ond’ (one-pole) clock tower. Schedules can be
erratic, rather like the maintenance of their
government-owned aircraft.
There are fl ights to Myitkyina from the following
destinations:
Mandalay Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday
and Sunday ($95, AB); Monday, Wednesday,
Friday and Saturday ($60, MA).
Nay Pyi Taw Monday, Wednesday, Friday and
Saturday ($95, MA).
Putao Monday ($35, MA), Tuesday and Sunday
($60, AB). With pre-arranged permits/tour
only.
Yangon Monday, Tuesday, Thursday, Friday and
Sunday ($140, AB); Monday, Wednesday, Friday
and Saturday ($125, MA)
TRANSPORT OPTIONS TO MYITKYINA
The following table provides a quick comparison of the various ways of getting to Myitky-
ina from Mandalay. Ferry options will be faster southbound and in the rainy season (see
boxed text, p 239 for more details). All boat-ferry options require intermediate stops.
TYPE OF TRAVEL DURATION FARE FREQUENCY
Air 70min $60-95 nine fl ights weekly
Bus not permitted not permitted not permitted
Fast boats 4-5 days K66,000 total see boxed text p 239
Fast boats & bus 2-plus days K48,000 total alternate days on one section
Ferry & boats 6-plus days K30,000 plus $7 three ferries weekly
Ferry & bus 5-plus days K12,000 plus $7 three ferries weekly
Train 16-40hr $10-30 three daily