lonely-planet-myanmar-burma-11-edition

248

NORTHERN MYANMAR

MYITKYINA & THE UPPER AYEYARWADY

has an abandoned wooden monastery dor-

mitory that’s precariously close to collapse.

Shwebon Yadana PA L AC E

(admission incl Hanlin $5; h7.30am-5.30pm) The

city’s most striking buildings are a pair

of towering gold-painted wooden throne

rooms, nine-tiers high. These would have

been the centrepiece of the King Alaung-

paya’s 1753 palace complex. However, in

the British era, the originals were replaced

by a jail. What you see today are recently

reconstructed structures. They are undoubt-

edly photogenic but have no furnishings

and if you’re not planning on visiting Hanlin

(p 249 ), the entry fee seems farcically high –

try peeping over the wall from the west to

get an idea for free. If you do pay up, the

ticket also includes entry to a two-room

museum displaying assorted archaeological

fi nds, manuscript chests and Alaungpaya’s

royal palanquin.

Old City Moat NEIGHBOURHOOD

In its 18th-century heyday, the palace was

at the heart of an enormous walled city. The

wall is now almost entirely invisible but

some sections of the wide moat are well pre-

served. The road to Kyaukmyaung crosses

one section beside Yan Gyi Aung Park but

more attractive is the area around 2 miles

north of town where the moat is crossed by

a road causeway near Maw Daw Myin Tha

Paya, a pagoda built by Alaungpaya and

guarded by giant chinthe.

 4 Sleeping

Win Guest House HOTEL $$

(%22049; Aung Zeya St; s/d $20/30, with shared

bathroom $10/20) Fresh, clean and unusually

airy, the standard rooms are boxy but bright

and share communal showers that are spot-

less and spacious. A handful of top-fl oor

rooms have private bathroom, air-condition-

ing and satellite TV (but no hot water). Some

English is spoken and the staff is reasonably

accustomed to dealing with foreigners. The

nobby-looking 2007 building is handily close

to the market area.

Shwe Phyu Guest House HOTEL $

(%22264; Yan Gyi Aung St; s/d K12,000/20,000,

with shared bathroom K7000/14,000) Better

rooms have an en-suite squat, cold shower,

cobwebs and geckos. Floors are neatly tiled

and the manager speaks English but the

road outside is as noisy as the beer station

opposite. The similar Zinwailar Guesthouse,

nearby, has a couple of rooms with air con-

ditioning.

 5 Eating & Drinking

Open-air food stands set up shop around

the market, especially after dusk. There’s a

sprinkling of restaurants along Aung Zeya

6

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Shwebo

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To Kyauk-

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(18mi)

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To Hanlin

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To Monywa

(64mi)

Mandalay

(71mi)

0200m

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Shwebo

æSights

1 Palace Museum ................................... A1

2 Schwebon Yadana...............................A2

3 Shwe Daza Paya ..................................A2

ÿSleeping

4 Shwe Phyu Guest House..................... B1

5 Win Guest House .................................A2

6 Zinwailar Guesthouse ......................... B1

úEating

7 Eden Culinary Garden ......................... B1

8 SSD Garden Restaurant...................... A1

ûDrinking

9 Melody Music Garden ......................... B1

ïTransport

10 Buses to Kyaukmyaung ...................... A1

11 Main Bus Station .................................A3