251MANDALAY TO LASHIOACTIVITIESNORTHERN MYANMARACTIVITIESNORTHERN MYANMARPYIN OO LWINing aspect is the way fl owers and overhanging
branches frame views of Kandawgyi Lake’s
wooden bridges and small gilded pagoda.
Admission costs include use of the swimming
pool, visits to the aviary (h8am-5pm), orchid
garden, butterfly museum (h8.30am-5pm)
and the bizarre Nan Myint Tower (hlift op-
erates till 5pm). Looking like a space-rocket
designed for a medieval Chinese Emperor,
this 12-storey structure off ers panoramic
views which are better appreciated from the
external staircase than through the grease-
smeared windows of the observation deck.
Annoyingly you can’t use your bicycle to
get around the extensive site so bring walk-
ing shoes and allow around two hours to do
it justice. Using the southern entrance slight-
ly reduces the walking you have to do. By
6pm either gate will likely be locked so watch
the time – there are no closure warnings.
The garden’s two entrances are both on
the eastern side of Kandawgyi Lake, around
a mile south of smaller Kandawlay Lake.
National Landmarks Garden MUSEUM
(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) This extensive
hilly park is dotted with representations of
famous landmarks from around Myanmar,
in a selection of diff erent scales. Some are
pretty tacky. The entrance is across the main
road from National Kandawgyi Gardens, a
little to the north of their southern (main)
entrance. There is also an amusement park
(adult/child $4/2; h8am-6pm) around 500 yard
further north.
Circular Road NEIGHBOURHOOD
A good sprinkling of Pyin Oo Lwin’s trade-
mark colonial era buildings lie dotted
amid the southeastern woodland suburbs
as you’ll see if you cycle Circular or Forest
Roads round to the Candacraig Hotel or the
splendid former Croxton Hotel (Gandamar
Myaing Hotel; Circular Rd). Some look like 1920s
British homes, others like Louisiana planta-
tion houses and the biggest have the air of
St Trinian’s, as with Number 4 High School
(Circular Rd) and the Survey Training Centre
(Multi-Offi ce Rd). Up near the Shan Market, a
fi ne half-timbered mansion is now a Sev-
enth Day Adventist Church (Cherry St).Chan Tak CHINESE TEMPLE
(134 Forest Rd) This large, classically styled,
if mostly modern, Chinese temple comes
complete with ornate stucco dragons, rock
gardens, a vegetarian buff et restaurant, land-
scaped ponds and a seven-layered Chinese-
style pagoda.Candacraig Hotel HISTORIC BUILDING
(Thiri Myaing Hotel; %22047; Anawrattha Rd; s/d
$42/48) Formerly the British Club, this clas-
sic colonial pile comes complete with side
turrets and is set in attractively manicured
gardens. It makes a popular fi lm set for
Burmese movie-makers. However, many lo-
cals believe the building to be haunted, and
Westerners tend to avoid it due to its govern-
ment affi liation (see p 21 ), so it is not unusual
to fi nd the eight slightly discoloured guest
rooms mostly unoccupied. Disappointingly
there’s no raj-redolent bar. 2 Activities
The 18-hole Pyin Oo Lwin Golf Club
(%22382; Golf Club Rd; green fee $10, caddy $4,
club hire $5, shoe hire $1; h6am-6pm) is one of
Myanmar’s better golf courses. However, it’s
government run (see p 21 ) and has a strict
dress code with collars, caps and rubber-
spiked shoes compulsory.TRAVEL PLANNING FOR THE MANDALAY–LASHIO ROUTEFactors to consider:
» If you want to cross the Chinese border, you’ll need to get permits and do weeks of
planning (see the boxed text, p 267 )
» Flying to/from Lashio is worth considering as a quick, comfortable way to link Hsi-
paw with Inle Lake or Yangon.
» The Mandalay–Lashio railway journey is extraordinarily slow and bouncy enough to
inspire seasickness. However, it does offers trainspotters the joy of crossing the re-
markable Gokteik Viaduct (see boxed text, p 256 ) between Kyaukme and Pyin Oo Lwin.
» Cool, fresh Pyin Oo Lwin is barely two hours’ drive from Mandalay.
» Contrary to what most Mandalay guesthouse owners will tell you, there is now an
afternoon bus to Hsipaw (leaving Mandalay at 3.30pm).