254
NORTHERN MYANMAR
MANDALAY TO LASHIO
Dahlia Motel GUESTHOUSE $
(%22255, 105 Eidaw Rd; s/d/tr from $10/15/25,
s/d with shared bathroom $5/10) The Dahlia is
a friendly if nonaesthetic clump of coloured
concrete buildings off ering about the cheap-
est beds you’ll fi nd in the leafy ’burbs. Balco-
nies are disappointingly designed to overlook
a concrete car-park and some rooms are tatty
with mildewed bathrooms, though others are
quite acceptable – so look carefully. Water
runs hot...eventually. 5 Eating
The city centre has countless cheap, ordi-
nary restaurant-teahouses and simple cafes,
both along the main road and around the
Central Market where a night market sees
three blocks of Zaigyo St fi ll with snack-
food stands (snacks from K200; h5.30-9pm).
There’s also a row of cheap eateries (Melody,
Khitsan, Emperor) beside TKY Internet.
However, if you can spend a little more
money, a handful of stand-out restaurants
can make dining in Pyin Oo Lwin a real
pleasure.oClub Terrace SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$
(%23311; 25 Golf Club Rd; veg/nonveg mains
K2500/3500, rice K600; h7am-9pm) Pyin Oo
Lwin’s most romantic restaurant occupies
a gorgeous half-timbered colonial bunga-
low with tables spilling out onto the garden
terrace. The food favours scrumptiously
authentic Thai fl avours but if you’re chilli-
intolerant there are also some Malaysian
options and even fi sh and chips. Extensive
wine selection. Shan noodles breakfasts cost
K1200.Woodland EUROPEAN, THAI $$
(53 Circular Rd; mains K3000-6000; h9am-9.30pm;
W) This fashion conscious, if eclectic, design
statement includes electric-blue panelling
and a glass wall that reveals an aviary. Themenu covers mostly European and Thai ter-
ritory cooked with panache and served with
fl are. There’s also a cocktail bar and free wi-fi.Feel EUROPEAN, PAN-ASIAN $$
(%22083; off Nandar Rd; mains K2500-6000;
h8.30am-9.30pm) The upmarket yet casual
lakeside setting is an obvious attraction.
And the vast range of excellent food lives
up to the promise with well-honed local,
Thai, Chinese and European fl avours and
occasional forays into sushi and sashimi
that get the thumbs up from Japanese din-
ers. Reservations are occasionally advisable
for dinner. The comfy waterside cafe-terrace
serves real espressos (K1400) and a plethora
of cocktails (K2200 to K3600) but can get
pretty cold on winter evenings.Golden Triangle Café BAKERY, CAFE $
(Mandalay-Lashio Rd; cakes, sandwiches & pizzas
K500-2000; h7am-10pm) This upbeat Western-
fl avoured cafe occupies a column-fronted
late-colonial building full of ceiling fans and
big blackboard menus. It serves a range of
coff ees (K500 to K1800), juices, cakes, sand-
wiches, pizzas and burgers.Family Restaurant BURMESE, THAI $
(off Mandalay-Lashio Rd; meals K1500-5000;
h9.30am-9pm) The decor is bland, if bright,
and there’s no alcohol (food is halal) but the
delicious curry spread (K1500 to K2500)
comes with complimentary rice, soup, pap-
padams and a 10-dish smorgasbord of salad
vegies, side dishes, chutneys and dips. Pricier
Thai and Chinese options are also available.Sain Mya Ayar CAFE, CHINESE $
(Zay Thit Rd; snacks/meals K500/2000; h6am-
9pm) This family cafe fi lls a new pavilion
in the small front yard of a modest half-
timbered colonial-era house. Snack on dim
sum (K500), delicious strawberry juice
(K1000) and assorted cakes (K25 to K200
per piece). 6 Drinking
Hiromi Cafe CAFE
(%22685; 55D Aing Daw Rd; h8.30am-5.30pm)
This cute, tiny timber cafe with fi replace and
wrought-iron chairs is ideal for a coff ee or
glass of homemade plum wine while explor-
ing the leafy lanes.Tiger Hotel BAR
(Golf Course Rd; beer K700; h8am-10pm) Thatched
drinking pavilions attractively set between ba-
nana trees.TAY ZA IN PYIN OO LWINIf you’re worried about supporting
government- affi liated businesses (see
p 21 ), you’ll be a little stumped in Pyin
Oo Lwin, where the town’s foremost at-
traction, the Kandawgyi National Gar-
dens, is now owned by Tay Za’s Htoo
Group as are most of the best hotels
(Governor’s House, Kandawgyi Lodge,
Candacraig).