258
NORTHERN MYANMAR
MANDALAY TO LASHIO
Eastbound Departs 1.50pm for Hsipaw (ordi-
nary/upper class $2/4, two hours)
Westbound Departs 11.25am for Mandalay
($3/6, 10½ hours) via Gokteik Viaduct (2½
hours) and Pyin Oo Lwin ($3/6, five hours).
Hsipaw
oIep:
%082 / POP C54,000 / ELEV APPROX 700M
The trickle of foreigners who make it to Hsi-
paw (‘see-paw’ or ‘tee-bor’), mostly arrive for
hill-tribe treks that are easy to organise and
handily short yet ‘unspoilt’ in a way you’ll
rarely fi nd around Kalaw or anywhere in
northern Thailand. Hsipaw itself is smaller
yet more historic than Lashio or Kyaukme. It
has just enough tourist infrastructure to be
convenient yet it still feels thoroughly genu-
ine. Though architectural remnants are fairly
limited, this was once a Shan royal city. Lo-
cal historians claim that 19th-century prince
Sao So Chae was knighted by Queen Victoria
while the last sawba (Shan prince), Sao Kya
Seng, became the tragic hero of a book by his
Austrian wife (see boxed text, p 259 ). 1 Sights & Activities
The present town centre, Tyaung Myo, only
dates back to the early 20th century. The
main monasteries, stupas and former palacelie on higher ground around a mile further
north in Myauk Myo.Central Riverfront NEIGHBOURHOOD
Hsipaw’s riverside produce market
(h4.30am-1pm) is most interesting before
dawn when the road outside is jammed
with hill-villagers (Shan, Palaung, Lisu) sell-
ing their wares: all will have cleared away
by 7am. Between here and the large central
market (h8am-5pm) are four column-front-
ed 19th-century godowns (warehouses, one
now used as a schoolroom) and a banyan
tree worshipped by locals as a nat (spirit)
shrine, though reverence doesn’t prevent
the nearby riverbank being used as a smelly
rubbish tip.Mahamyatmuni Paya BUDDHIST TEMPLE
(Namtu Rd) South of the central area, Maham-
yatmuni Paya is the biggest and grandest
pagoda in the main town. The large brass-
faced buddha image here was inspired by
the famous Mahamuni buddha (p 208 ) in
Mandalay. He’s now backed by an acid-trip
halo of pulsating coloured lights that would
seem better suited to a casino.Myauk Myo NEIGHBOURHOOD
Towards the northern edge of town, Hsipaw’s
oldest section today has a village-like atmo-
sphere and two delightful old teak monas-
teries. The multifaceted wooden Madahya
Monastery looks particularly impressive
when viewed across the palm-shaded pond
of the Bamboo Buddha Monastery (Maha
Nanda Kantha), whose 150-year-old lac-
quered buddha is made from bamboo strips
(now hidden beneath layers of gold). Around
and behind lie a few clumps of ancient brick
stupas, some being overwhelmed by vegeta-
tion in vaguely Angkor Wat style. The nick-
name for this area, Little Bagan, blatantly
overplays the size and extent of the sites but
the area is undoubtedly charming.
To get here cross the big bridge on Namtu
St heading north. Turn fi rst left at the police
station, then fi rst right and fork left. Take
this lane across the railway track then fol-
low the main track as it wiggles.
To return by an alternative route, take
the unpaved track east behind the Bamboo
Buddha monastery, rapidly passing Eissa
Paya (where one stupa has a tree growing
out of it). You’ll emerge near Sao Pu Sao
Nai, a colourful shrine dedicated to the
guardian nat of Hsipaw. Rather than turn-
ing left into the shrine, turn right and you’ll
reach Namtu Rd a little north of the railway.TREKKING FROM KYAUKMETypical walking destinations have an
unspoilt charm that challenges even
those around Hsipaw. But Kyaukme
itself is pretty spread out so most
treks start with a motorcycle ride to a
suitable trailhead. This is typically in-
cluded in guide-fees, which cost around
K25,000 for a couple plus K15,000 per
additional walker. For longer motorbike
trails you’ll need to add K10,000 per
day for bike rental plus petrol.
Naing-Naing (%09 4730 7622;
[email protected]), nicknamed
‘9-9’, is Kyaukme’s best-known guide.
He has a fascinating background and
an extensive knowledge of the entire
area. The guesthouse has copies of his
hand-drawn hiking and biking sche-
matic regional map. Thura (%09 4730
8497; http://www.thuratrips.tl) has also been
recommended.