267THE FAR NORTHTOURSNORTHERN MYANMARTOURSNORTHERN MYANMAR T To ur s
For foreign visitors the only way to visit is
on a pre-arranged tour. Allow ample time
for organising practicalities as your agency
will need to obtain permits that usually
take an absolute minimum of two weeks
to issue, often much longer. The cheapest
tours usually cost from around $150 per
person per day (minimum four days) plus
fl ights to Putao. Tour package fees gener-
ally include food, permits and excursions
and/or treks.
In the dry season, an appealing part-day
activity is a boat trip along sections of the
deep green Malikha River alternating be-
tween rapids and calm pebble-bottomed
shallows and passing beaches, sculpted
rocks, unspoilt villages and rainforest jungle-
sections. When water levels are higher, white-
water rafting is a possibility. This might be
combined with an interesting excursion to
Machanbaw (40 minutes’ drive from Putao).
With an attractive setting beside the mirror-
calm Malikha River, Machanbaw was the dis-
trict’s former colonial administrative centre
and retains a well-spaced scattering of older
British-era buildings.
Tours typically include some trekking.
Even for just a two-day walk you’ll probably
get porters, a good cook and accommoda-
tion provided en route whether camping
or in a very basic village homestay or cabin.
Longer treks include a 14-day hike to the
peak of 11,926ft Mt Phon Kan Razi, for
views over the Myanmar Himalaya and the
Mishimi Hills of neighbouring Arunachal
Pradesh. For an excellent visual impression
of the route’s attractions and challenges see
http://www.hsdejong.nl/myanmar/putao.
Don’t underestimate the rigour of hiking
here. Even the shortest loop includes long
days of fairly strenuous gradients, a high
chance of leeches and you’ll need to be pre-
pared for damp, cold weather. 4 Sleeping & Eating
In coming years, a major expansion in fa-
cilities can be expected if Putao develops
as planned into Myanmar’s ecotourism
gateway. For now, however, unless you’re
allowed to stay at the basic ‘army’ guest-
house (www.traveltomyanmar.com/hotel_putao.
htm), all tours start and fi nish with at least
one night at either the stunning but secre-
tive and massively expensive Tay Za–owned
Malikha Lodge (www.malikhalodge.com),
around an hour’s drive from Putao, or at the
more aff ordable Putao Trekking House
(www.putaotrekkinghouse.com), a perfectly de-
cent place but with some inconsistencies
and indiff erent food served in a glaringly lit
dining hall. The cabin rooms are designed
so that the small verandahs face a central
lawn rather than the distant mountain
horizon.8 Getting There & Away
AIR Twice weekly Air Bagan fl ights to Putao cost
around $180 from Yangon, $120 from Mandalay
and $60 from Myitkyina but without tour permits
you won’t be allowed to board the plane. Tours
can be organised through Malikha Lodge, Jour-
neys (www.journeysmyanmar.com), MTT (p 69 )
and assorted Yangon agencies.
Road transport from Myitkyina would be
appallingly rough but isn’t permitted anyway
for foreigners. Locals claim that there are only
around 20 cars in the whole Putao area.MU-SE & THE MYANMAR–CHINA BORDERThe border crossing between Mu-se and Ruili (Shweli) in China is nominally open to
travellers. However, getting to Mu-se requires a permit that will take at least two weeks to
be issued and even then is only available if you book a package including car, driver and
guide through Myanmar Travels & Tours (MTT) in Yangon (p 69 ) or Mandalay (p 219 ). This
will cost around $200 from Lashio where your guide will collect you at a pre-designated
hotel. You’ll need to have your Chinese visa already. In reverse you’ll need to organise
things through a travel agency in Kunming where there’s also a Myanmar consulate
(%0871-360 3477; http://www.mcg-kunming.com; Room A504, Long Yuan Hao Zhai, 166 Wei Yuan Jie;
h8.30am-noon & 1-2pm Mon-Fri).
Permits are also required for the appallingly rough Mu-se–Namhkam–Bhamo
road. MTT Mandalay (p 219 ) can fi x things and provide a Lashio–Bhamo vehicle for
$350/370/390 (one/two/three passengers) but again you’ll need at least two weeks
prep time. It might take much longer.