287CHIN STATE8WESTERN MYANMAR8WESTERN MYANMARMT VICTORIA (NAT MA TAUNG)WETHALI
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Almost 6 miles north of Mrauk U are the re-
mains of the kingdom of Wethali (aka Vesali,
or Waithali in local parlance). According to
the Rakhaing chronicles, Wethali was found-
ed in AD 327 by King Mahataing Chandra.
Archaeologists believe that this kingdom
lasted until the 8th century. Little remains
of the oval-shaped city (and apparently
some buildings were damaged purposely for
road-building materials in recent years). The
walls of the 1650ft by 990ft central palace
site are reasonably well preserved.
The main attraction for visitors en route
to Mahamuni Paya is the so-called Great
Image of Hsu Taung Pre (Pye), home to
a 16.5ft Rakhaing-style sitting buddha. It’s
said to be carved from a single piece of stone
and date to AD 327 (but most visitors argue
the features look more modern).
Regular transport is rare. It’s possible to
reach here by bicycle (take the sign that says
‘VSL’ and ‘you are here’ east from the main
road).
MAHAMUNI PAYA
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Some local Rakhaing recount, with fresh,
fi ery passion, how the Bamar King Bodaw-
paya sent soldiers to dismantle and remove
the Mahamuni buddha in 1784. Originally
housed here at the Mahamuni Paya, 25
miles north of Mrauk U and just north of the
former ancient capital of Dhanyawady, the
image is one of the country’s most famous
and venerated. Although the buddha now
resides in Mandalay (p 208 ), its original site
remains a fascinating place to visit.
Some Rakhaing believe the image was cast
when Buddha visited the area in 554 BC. Oth-
ers say King Bodawpaya unknowingly took
a counterfeit back to Amarapura (to which
it was originally relocated) and the true one
rests under the banyan tree at the site’s south-
west corner. The Rakhaing don’t let go easily.
The current Konbaung-style shrine dates
from the 19th century, as earlier ones were
destroyed by fi re. The Mahamuni buddha is
gone, but ‘Mahamuni’s brother’ is now one
of three fi ne golden images resting inside.
Down the steps, near the south walls of
the shrine, is a small museum (free) with a
couple of dozen relics and engraved stones.
The hilltop golden stupas visible (barely)
to the east, are the fi rst indication that you’re
close to Salagiri Hill, the fabled site Buddha
visited in 554 BC. It’s as close as you’ll get, as
the area is closed to foreigners.
The easiest way to get to the site from
Mrauk U is by hired jeep (K35,000; three
hours one way); you should be able to stop
at Wethali along the way.CHIN STATE
Hilly, sparsely populated and severely lack-
ing infrastructure, much of Chin State
(xY='" ̈p–'ny') is off limits to travellers. The
people and culture exhibit a mixture of na-
tive, Bengali and Indian infl uences similar
to that found among the Rakhaing, with a
much lower Bamar presence; for more on
the Chin see p 308.
All visits to Chin State require government
permission and the presence of a licensed
guide – something that will take at least 20
days, and more likely a month, to arrange.
There are a couple of options to mingle
with Chin people just outside Chin State
that don’t require government permits: vil-
lages near Mrauk U in Rakhaing State and
a fl ight from Mandalay to Kalaymyo (Kalay),
a half Chin town in Sagaing Region just
northeast of Chin State.Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung)
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As long as you’re with a licensed guide, one
of the few areas of Chin State on the tour-
ist radar is Mt Victoria (Nat Ma Taung),
roughly 80 miles west of Bagan. The 10,016ft
(3,053m) mountain, Myanmar’s second
highest, stands amid a 279 sq mile national
park and is a prime spot for birdwatching.
It’s best visited in November when the rho-
dodendron bushes that cover the slopes are
in full bloom.
Several tour agencies have itineraries cov-
ering Mt Victoria, including Yangon-based
Bike World Explores Myanmar (%09 513
4190; http://www.bwemtravel.com) off ering both trek-
king and cycling tours to the mountain; and
the experienced Yangon-based guide Mr
Saw (%09 4929 2258; http://www.toursmyanmar.com;
[email protected]).
Saw charges $550 per person from Ny-
aung U (Bagan) for a fi ve-day (four-night)
trip including car, driver, guide, accommo-
dation (minimum two people per trip).
The loop from Nyaung U starts with a
seven-hour ride to Mindat town – across