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(Axel Boer) #1

288


WESTERN MYANMAR


CHIN STATE


the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River on rough
roads. The next day it’s seven more hours to
Kampelet at the foot of the mountain, where
you trek up to the summit (3 miles one way).
It’s possible to camp overnight on the moun-
tain and it’s an eight-hour ride back to Ny-
aung U from Kampelet.
Longer itineraries, including visits to the
region to take part in the Chin National Day
celebrations (usually held around 20 Febru-
ary) and an overland journey from Mrauk U,
can be also be arranged.

Kalaymyo (Kalay)
kel"Dmúui¾
It’s remote, and not particularly exciting,
but travellers with hopes to mingle with
Chin folk can fl y to Kalaymyo (often called
Kalay) without government permission.
The town – 9 miles long, rarely more than
two blocks wide and about 62 miles from
the Indian border – off ers few sights beyond
a central market and a pagoda. It’s more in-
teresting to see its half Burmese, half Chin

population and its slender setting, ringed by
far-off , lush mountains.
Foreigners who do make it here are typi-
cally Christian missionaries ministering
to the Chin (who are 95% Christian and
live in the western half of town). The Chin
folk sometimes refer to Kalaymyo as ‘Zomi’.
There’s some local debate on who lived here
fi rst, Bamar or Chin. No women have tat-
tooed faces here.
Across the street from the airport is
Taung Za Lat Hotel (%073-21463; Bogyoke
Rd; s/d from $15/20) the lone hotel licensed for
foreigners. Be prepared for grubby rooms
with balconies, fans, screened windows and
squashed ’squitoes left on the walls. More
expensive rooms are slightly bigger but not
really worth it.
In theory, both Myanma Airways ($105)
and Air Bagan ($152) off er at least a couple
of fl ights a week here from Yangon (2 hours),
but the schedule depends on demand, so be
prepared for last-minute changes and can-
cellations. The same applies to fl ights from
Mandalay (from $45; one hour).

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