376TRANSPORT
GETTING AROUND^
Cargo Ships
Myanma Five Star Line
(www.mfsl-shipping.com), the
government-owned ocean
transport enterprise, is only
cargo now, but you can try
to see about jumping on a
boat to Thandwe, Taunggok
or Sittwe, or south to Dawei,
Myeik or Kawthoung, at
some point in the future.Ferries & Private
Boats
The government-run Inland
Water Transport (IWT; http://www.
iwt.gov.mm) has 476 boats
shifting some 25 million pas-
sengers annually. The boats
tend to be rather run-down
and ramshackle, but provide
remarkable glimpses into lo-
cal river life. Many of the pas-
sengers on the long-distance
ferries are traders who make
stops along the way to pick
up or deliver goods.
Along the heavily travelled
262-mile-long Yangon–Pyay–
Mandalay route, there are 28
ferry landings, where mer-
chants can ply their trade.
IWT offi ces are usually near
the jetty. They can off er infor-
mation, schedules and fare
details, and usually tickets.
IWT offi ces, offi cially, accept
US dollars and FECs only.
Some short trips – for
example, between Bagan and
Pakokku – are handled with
small covered wooden fer-
ries that fi t about 25 people.
Often there are smaller,
private boats you can negoti-
ate to use with the driver. We
include private boat services
whenever possible. However,
because of their size it’s not
always as safe riding with
private boats compared with
bigger government ferries.
In 2004, a small private boat
between Sittwe and Mrauk U
capsized during a storm and
several Italian tourists were
killed.
Only a few riverboat
routes are regularly used by
visitors. Key routes:» (^) Mandalay to Bagan (see
p 120 ) On the IWT or private
boats such as the Malikha
» (^) Mandalay to Myitkyina
via Bhamo and Katha (see
p 241 ) A few private fast-boat
services, but mostly done on
the IWT.
» Mawlamyine to Hpa-an
(see p 101 ) Daily government
ferries.
» (^) Sittwe to Mrauk U (see
p 279 ) Small private boats or
government ferry.
There is no direct service
between Yangon and Manda-
lay; you have to change boats
in Pyay – and the IWT offi ces
seemed to frown on taking
passengers on this route. If
you make it, take a book or
two: it’s about two days by
boat between Mandalay and
Bagan, three more to Pyay,
and two more to Yangon. A
more feasible long journey,
and a more attractive one, is
south from Myitkyina.
Luxury Boats
Several luxury ferries travel
the upper and lower reaches
of the Ayeyarwady River.
You can book services with
travel agents in Yangon, but
keep in mind that many
trips are booked out by tour
groups and some will be
joint-venture operations. For
more about these cruises see
boxed text, p 214.
Amara Cruise (www.
myanmar-discovery.de, http://www.
amaragroup.net) Owned by
a German and his Burmese
wife this company runs
cruises from Mandalay to
both Bagan (four day, three
nights single/double from
€720/490) and Bhamo
(seven day, six nights single/
double from €1620/1120); it
also runs a local charity the
Amara Foundation (www.
amara-foundation.com)
Ayravata Cruises (www.
ayravatacruises.com) Beauti-
fully restored river steamers
are used for this company’s
trips, which range from one
or two days between Manda-
SURVIVING LONG-DISTANCE BUS TRIPS
Heed the following points and your long-distance bus
trip will, possibly, be more comfortable:
» Bring snacks and drinks by all means but don’t
worry too much about this. A bottle of water is often
handed out on better-quality buses. There are usually
no bathrooms on the bus, but frequent toilet-and-re-
freshment stops (where everyone must get off the bus
to prevent anything being stolen) perforate the night –
frustrating if you’ve just got to sleep and the bus stops
at 3am for ‘breakfast’.
» Often the TV blares for much of the trip – usually
sticking with Myanmar-made concerts or movies
detailing things such as, oh, protagonists dying bloody
deaths in car crashes, but the occasional Raiders of
the Lost Ark slips in.
» Take a jacket or blanket (preferably both) as tem-
peratures can drop substantially at night. And con-
sider earplugs and an eye-mask as well if you plan to
grab a little shut-eye between toilet stops.
» Myanmar superstition says that when you’re on a
journey you shouldn’t ask anyone ‘How much longer?’,
or ‘Brother, when will we arrive?’, as this is only tempt-
ing fate.
» Try not to become alarmed when you see how some
local passengers hold their breath whenever a bus ap-
proaches a particularly dodgy looking bridge.