58YANGON
on the other hand, may inspire a variety of
thoughts and emotions. 5 Eating
Eating at a Burmese restaurant, with its
seemingly never- ending courses and side
dishes, is an experience in itself. And as
Yangon is the gateway to Myanmar for most
visitors, it’s here that many travellers’ fi rst
experience Burmese cuisine. As such, be
sure to arm yourself with a bit of culinary
knowledge (p 328 ) before hitting the restau-
rants, street stalls and teahouses of Yangon.
But it’s not all about Burmese eats; Yan-
gon is the culinary capital of the country,
and its culinary diversity is an unexpected
highlight of a visit to the city. You’re likely
to encounter more than your fair share of
Chinese (Burmese Chinese, actually) while
upcountry, so unless you’re a huge fan of the
genre, it’s probably worth investigating the
other options.
Myanmar people love their Shan food,
and the cuisine is not diffi cult to fi nd in
Yangon. Along Anawrahta Rd, west of Sule
Paya Rd towards the Sri Kali temple, are
a number of shops serving Indian food,
much of it southern Indian in origin and
Muslim-infl uenced. Much of the city’s
Western-style food is disappointing, but
it’s probably the most authentic you’ll en-
counter in Myanmar, so it’s worth taking
advantage of.
Eat early – by 10pm all but a couple of
places and a few large hotel restaurants
will be closed. Travellers keen to avoid
government-owned places (see p 21 ) should
bypass the Karaweik Palace Restaurant,
which is a remarkable-looking structure on
Kandawgyi.CITY CENTRE
Nilar Biryani & Cold Drink MUSLIM INDIAN $
(Map p 46 ; 216 Anawrahta Rd; meals from K800;
hall day) Giant cauldrons full of spices,
broths and rice bubble away at the front of
this bright and brash Indian joint. It’s never
less than packed, and with good reason: the
biryanis are probably among the best your
lips will meet. The chicken has been cooked
so slowly and for so long that the meat just
drips off , the rice is out of this world and
the banana lassi is divine. Nothing on the
menu costs more than K1800, and most is a
fraction of that. It’s far and away the best of
several similar nearby places.Danuphyu Daw Saw Yee Myanma
Restaurant BURMESE $
(Map p 46 ; 175/177 29th St; meals from K2000;
hlunch & dinner) Ask locals where to eat
Burmese food in central Yangon and they’ll
most likely point you in the direction of this
longstanding shophouse restaurant. There’s
a brief English-language menu, but your best
bet is to have a look at the selection of curries
behind the counter. All dishes are served in
the Burmese style with sides of soup du jour
(the sour vegetable soup is particularly good)
and ngapi ye, a pungent dip served with par-
boiled vegies and fresh herbs.999 Shan Noodle Shop SHAN $
(Map p 42 ; 130/B 34th St; noodle dishes from K500;
hbreakfast & lunch) A handful of tables are
crammed into this tiny, brightly coloured
eatery behind City Hall, a short walk from
Sule Paya. The menu includes noodles such
as Shàn k’auq swèh (thin rice noodles in a
slightly spicy chicken broth) and myi shay
(Mandalay-style noodle soup) and tasty non-
noodle dishes such as Shan tofu (actually
made from chickpea fl our) and the delicious
Shan yellow rice with tomato.Feel Myanmar Food BURMESE $$
(Map p 46 ; 124 Pyidaungsu Yeiktha St; meals from
K3000; hlunch & dinner) This sophisticated
jungle-shack restaurant is reminiscent of a
north Myanmar house. It’s a superb place
to get your fi ngers dirty experimenting with
the huge range of tasty Burmese dishes,
which are laid out in little trays that you can
just point to. It’s very popular at lunchtime
with local businesspeople and foreign em-
bassy staff.New Delhi Restaurant INDIAN $
(Map p 46 ; Anawrahta Rd; mains from K500; hall
day) This grubby place serves tasty Muslim-HAVE YOUR SAYFound a fantastic restaurant that
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