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YANGON

Zawgyi House BURMESE, INTERNATIONAL $$

(Map p 46 ; 372 Bogyoke Aung San Rd; mains K2300-

7800; hall day;a) This coff ee shop is a bold

display of what could be if the city was ever

allowed out of its doldrums. It’s very much

a hang-out for expats and passing business-

people, all of whom appreciate the expensive

shakes, juices, ice creams and sandwiches.

Hong Lau Lau NORTHERN CHINESE $$

(Map p 46 ; 416-418 Strand Rd; mains from K1800;

hlunch & dinner; a) Allegedly where the Chi-

nese embassy staff eat when feeling home-

sick, this unassuming joint serves northern

Chinese staples, from hand-pulled noodles

to freshly rolled dumplings, under the su-

pervision of a Chinese chef.

Japan Japan JAPANESE $$

(Map p 42 ; 239 Pansodan St; mains K2500-3000;

hlunch & dinner; a) A kitschily decorated but

strangely cool Japanese restaurant (the sign

says ‘Japan Style’), with Japanese staff who

like to make a fuss over you. The food is

cheap, fi lling and mouthwatering with some

superb sushi.

Nam Kham Family Shan

Restaurant SHAN $

(Map p 42 ; 134 37th St; meals from K700; hall day)

This tiny restaurant, located conveniently

near the centre of town, serves the usual

Shan noodle dishes plus a variety of point-

and-choose curries, soups, stir-fries and

other dishes served over rice.

Monsoon SOUTHEAST ASIAN $$$

(Map p 42 ; %295 224; http://www.monsoonmyanmar.com;

85-87 Thein Byu Rd; mains from K2200; hlunch &

dinner; a) Located in an airy colonial town

house, Monsoon is a good option for those

intimidated by Yangon’s more authentic op-

tions. The menu also spans the rest of main-

land Southeast Asia, with sections from Thai-

land, Vietnam, Cambodia and Laos. Upstairs

is Loft, a good handicraft shop.

Bharat Restaurant SOUTHERN INDIAN $

(Map p 42 ; %281 519; 356 Mahabandoola Rd; mains

from K1000; hall day) Specialising in south-

ern Indian dishes, Bharat’s tidy interior and

marble-topped tables make a nice change

from the long cafeteria-style tables at the

Indian places on Anawrahta Rd.

Ichiban-Kan JAPANESE $$

(Map p 42 ; 17-18 Aung San Stadium; noodle dishes $5-

7; hlunch & dinner; a) An intimate and tasteful

restaurant, which seems to have been lifted

straight from the Tokyo backstreets of yester-

year. The food is as well presented and creat-

ed as the décor, and the small menu focuses

on soup and noodle dishes.

Ciao Pizzeria Italiana ITALIAN $$

(Map p 42 ; 262 Pansodan St; pizzas K4000-7500;

hlunch & dinner; a) Small and simple Italian

restaurant without any unnecessary fuss,

and with passable imitations of Rome’s fi n-

est, including spaghetti with seafood and

a decent selection of pizzas. The Myanmar

chef has been trained by an Italian.

Lotaya SHAN $

(Map p 46 ; Bogyoke Aung San Market; mains K1000-

3800; hlunch Tue-Sun) A shack-like place lo-

cated at the back of Bogyoke Market serving

Shan noodles and Thai- and Chinese-style

dishes, in addition to iced coff ees and fruit

drinks. They’re not the best Shan noodles

in town, but it’s a good place to refuel while

shopping.

Maw Shwe Li Restaurant SHAN $

(Map p 46 ; 654 Strand Rd; mains from K1000;

hlunch & dinner) The most recent incarnation

of this popular restaurant is something of

a Shan-themed sports bar. Several screens

broadcast football while Shan-style snacks

(spicy salads, deep-fried tofu) and draught

beer entertain the mouth.

OUTSIDE CIT Y CENTRE

oAung Thukha BURMESE $

(Map p 48 ; Dhama Zedi Rd; meals from K2000; hall

day) This longstanding institution just might

be our favourite place in town for Myanmar

food. There’s heaps of choice, with everything

from rich, meaty curries to light, freshly made

salads, and the fl avours are more subtle here

than elsewhere, emphasising herbs rather

than oil and spice. And despite the fact that

it’s almost constantly busy, Aung Thuka man-

ages to maintain gentle, friendly service and a

palpable old-school atmosphere, making the

experience akin to eating at someone’s home.

Minn Lane Rakhaing Monte & Fresh

Seafood RAKHAING BURMESE $$

(Map p 38 ; cnr Parami Rd & Pyay Rd; mains from

K2000; hlunch & dinner) If you want spicy,

skip Thai and head directly to this boister-

ous Rakhaing-themed grilled seafood hall,

popular with local families on a night out.

The eponymous monte (actually moún-di)

is a noodle soup featuring rice noodles and

an intensely peppery broth. If you prefer the

latter on the side, order Rakhaing salad, a

spicy noodle salad. And of course there’s all